How to take photographs with a DSLR camera. How to use any Nikon DSLR camera

It is quite difficult to learn to take good photographs if you do not know the basics and main terms and concepts in photography. Therefore, the purpose of this article is to give a general understanding of what photography is, how a camera works and to get acquainted with the basic photographic terms.

Since today, film photography has become largely history, we will now talk about digital photography. Although 90% of all terminology is unchanged, and the principles of obtaining photographs are the same.

How is a photograph made?

The term photography means painting with light. In fact, the camera records the light coming through the lens onto the matrix and based on this light an image is formed. The mechanism of how an image is created based on light is quite complex and many scientific works have been written on this topic. By and large, detailed knowledge of this process is not so necessary.

How does image formation occur?

Passing through the lens, the light hits the photosensitive element, which records it. In digital cameras, this element is the matrix. The matrix is ​​initially closed from light by a curtain (camera shutter), which, when the shutter button is pressed, is retracted for a certain time (shutter speed), allowing light to act on the matrix during this time.

The result, that is, the photograph itself, directly depends on the amount of light hitting the matrix.

Photography is the recording of light on a camera matrix

Types of digital cameras

By and large, there are 2 main types of cameras.

Mirror (DSLR) and without mirror. The main difference between them is that in a DSLR camera, through a mirror installed in the body, you see the image directly through the lens in the viewfinder.
That is, “what I see, I photograph.”

In modern ones without mirrors, 2 techniques are used for this

• The viewfinder is optical and located to the side of the lens. When shooting, you need to make a small correction for the offset of the viewfinder relative to the lens. Typically used on point and shoot cameras
• Electronic viewfinder. The simplest example is transferring an image directly to the camera display. Typically used on point-and-shoot cameras, but in DSLR cameras this mode is often used in conjunction with optical mode and is called Live View.

How the camera works

Let's consider the operation of a DSLR camera, as the most popular option for those who really want to achieve something in photography.

A DSLR camera consists of a body (usually “body”, “body” - from the English body) and a lens (“glass”, “lens”).

Inside the body of a digital camera there is a matrix that captures the image.

Pay attention to the diagram above. When you look through the viewfinder, light passes through the lens, reflects off the mirror, then refracts through the prism and enters the viewfinder. This way you see through the lens what you will be shooting. The moment you press the shutter, the mirror rises, the shutter opens, light hits the sensor and is captured. This is how a photograph is obtained.

Now let's move on to the basic terms.

Pixel and megapixel

Let's start with the term "new digital age". It belongs more to the computer field than to photography, but is nevertheless important.

Any digital image is created from small dots called pixels. In digital photography, the number of pixels in the image is equal to the number of pixels on the camera matrix. The matrix itself consists of pixels.

If you enlarge any digital image many times, you will notice that the image consists of small squares - these are pixels.

A megapixel is 1 million pixels. Accordingly, the more megapixels in the camera matrix, the greater the number of pixels the image consists of.

If you zoom in on the photo, you can see the pixels.

What does a large number of pixels give? It's simple. Imagine that you are drawing a picture not with strokes, but with dots. Can you draw a circle if you only have 10 dots? It may be possible to do this, but most likely the circle will be “angular”. The more dots, the more detailed and accurate the image will be.

But there are two pitfalls here that are successfully exploited by marketers. Firstly, megapixels alone are not enough to take high-quality photographs; for this you also need a high-quality lens. Secondly, a large number of megapixels is important for printing photos in large sizes. For example, for a full-wall poster. When viewing a photo on a monitor screen, especially one reduced to fit the screen size, you will not see the difference between 3 or 10 megapixels for a simple reason.

The monitor screen usually fits far fewer pixels than are contained in your photo. That is, on the screen, when you compress a photo to screen size or less, you lose most of your “megapixels”. And a 10 megapixel photo will turn into a 1 megapixel one.

Shutter and shutter speed

The shutter is what blocks the camera's sensor from light until you press the shutter button.

Shutter speed is the time for which the shutter opens and the mirror rises. The shorter the shutter speed, the less light will hit the matrix. The longer the exposure time, the more light.

On a bright sunny day, in order to get enough light onto the sensor, you will need a very fast shutter speed - for example, only 1/1000 of a second. At night, it may take several seconds or even minutes to get enough light.

Shutter speed is determined in fractions of a second or in seconds. For example 1/60sec.

Diaphragm

The diaphragm is a multi-blade partition located inside the lens. It can be completely open or closed so much that there is only a small hole for light.

The aperture also serves to limit the amount of light that ultimately reaches the lens matrix. That is, shutter speed and aperture perform one task - regulating the flow of light entering the matrix. Why use exactly two elements?

Strictly speaking, the diaphragm is not a mandatory element. For example, in cheap point-and-shoot cameras and cameras of mobile devices it is not available as a class. But aperture is extremely important for achieving certain effects related to depth of field, which will be discussed later.

The aperture is designated by the letter f followed by the aperture number, for example, f/2.8. The lower the number, the more open the petals and the wider the opening.

ISO sensitivity

Roughly speaking, this is the sensitivity of the matrix to light. The higher the ISO, the more receptive the matrix is ​​to light. For example, to get a good shot at ISO 100 you will need a certain amount of light. But if there is not enough light, you can set ISO 1600, the matrix will become more sensitive and you will need several times less light for a good result.

It would seem that what is the problem? Why make different ISOs if you can make the maximum? There are several reasons. Firstly - if there is a lot of light. For example, in winter on a bright sunny day, when there is only snow all around, we will be faced with the task of limiting a colossal amount of light and a high ISO will only get in the way. Secondly (and this is the main reason) is the appearance of “digital noise”.

Noise is the scourge of a digital matrix, which manifests itself in the appearance of “grain” in a photograph. The higher the ISO, the more noise, the worse the photo quality.

Therefore, the amount of noise at high ISOs is one of the most important indicators of the quality of the matrix and a subject of constant improvement.

In principle, the noise indicators at high ISOs of modern DSLRs, especially top-end ones, are at a fairly good level, but they are still far from ideal.

Due to technological features, the amount of noise depends on the actual, physical dimensions of the matrix and the size of the pixels of the matrix. The smaller the matrix and the more megapixels, the higher the noise.

Therefore, the “cropped” matrices of cameras of mobile devices and compact point-and-shoot cameras will always make much more noise than those of professional DSLRs.

Exposure and exposure pair

Having become familiar with the concepts of shutter speed, aperture and sensitivity, let’s move on to the most important thing.

Exposure is a key concept in photography. Without understanding what exposure is, you are unlikely to learn how to take good photographs.

Formally, exposure is the amount of illumination of the photosensitive sensor. Roughly speaking - the amount of light falling on the matrix.

Your photo will depend on this:

• If it turns out to be too light, then the image is overexposed, too much light has hit the matrix and you have “exposed” the frame.
• If the photo is too dark, the image is underexposed; more light needs to hit the sensor.
• Not too light, not too dark - it means the exposure is chosen correctly.

From left to right - overexposed, underexposed and correctly exposed

The exposure is formed by selecting a combination of shutter speed and aperture, which is also called “exposure pair”. The photographer’s task is to choose a combination so as to provide the necessary amount of light to create an image on the matrix.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sensitivity of the matrix - the higher the ISO, the lower the exposure should be.

Focus point

The focus point, or simply focus, is the point at which you “focus.” To focus the lens on an object means to select the focus in such a way that this object is as sharp as possible.

Modern cameras usually use autofocus, a complex system that allows you to automatically focus on a selected point. But how autofocus works depends on many parameters, such as lighting. In poor lighting, autofocus may miss or may not be able to do its job at all. Then you'll have to switch to manual focusing and rely on your own eye.

Focusing by eyes

The point at which autofocus will focus is visible in the viewfinder. This is usually a small red dot. Initially it is centered, but on DSLR cameras you can choose a different point for better frame composition.

Focal length

Focal length is one of the characteristics of a lens. Formally, this characteristic shows the distance from the optical center of the lens to the matrix, where a sharp image of the object is formed. Focal length is measured in millimeters.

What is more important is the physical determination of the focal length, and what is the practical effect. Everything is simple here. The longer the focal length, the more the lens “brings closer” to the object. And the smaller the “angle of view” of the lens.

• Lenses with a short focal length are called wide-angle (“shiriki”) - they don’t “bring anything closer” but capture a wide angle of view.
• Lenses with a long focal length are called long-focus or telephoto lenses.
• are called "fixes". And if you can change the focal length, then it is a “zoom lens,” or, more simply, a zoom lens.

The zooming process is the process of changing the focal length of the lens.

Depth of field or depth of field

Another important concept in photography is depth of field - depth of field. This is the area behind and in front of the focus point within which objects in the frame appear sharp.

With a shallow depth of field, objects will be blurred just a few centimeters or even millimeters from the focusing point.
With a large depth of field, objects at a distance of tens and hundreds of meters from the focusing point can be sharp.

Depth of field depends on the aperture value, focal length and distance to the focusing point.

You can read more about what depth of field depends on in the article “”

Aperture

Aperture is the throughput of the lens. In other words, this is the maximum amount of light that the lens is capable of transmitting to the sensor. The higher the aperture, the better and the more expensive the lens.

Aperture depends on three components - the minimum possible aperture, focal length, as well as the quality of the optics itself and the optical design of the lens. Actually, the quality of the optics and the optical design influence the price.

Let's not go deep into physics. We can say that the aperture of a lens is expressed by the ratio of the maximum open aperture to the focal length. Typically, manufacturers indicate the aperture ratio on lenses in the form of numbers 1:1.2, 1:1.4, 1:1.8, 1:2.8, 1:5.6, etc.

The higher the ratio, the greater the aperture ratio. Accordingly, in this case, the fastest lens will be 1: 1.2

Carl Zeiss Planar 50mm f/0.7 is one of the fastest lenses in the world

The choice of lens based on aperture ratio must be approached wisely. Since aperture depends on the aperture, a fast lens at its minimum aperture will have a very shallow depth of field. Therefore, there is a chance that you will never use f/1.2, since you simply will not be able to really focus.

Dynamic range

The concept of dynamic range is also very important, although it is not heard out loud very often. Dynamic range is the ability of a matrix to convey simultaneously bright and dark areas of an image without loss.

You've probably noticed that if you try to remove a window while in the center of the room, you'll get two options in the picture:

• The wall on which the window is located will turn out well, but the window itself will be just a white spot
• The view from the window will be clearly visible, but the wall around the window will turn into a black spot

This is due to the very large dynamic range of such a scene. The difference in brightness inside the room and outside the window is too great for a digital camera to perceive in its entirety.

Another example of high dynamic range is landscape. If the sky is bright and the bottom is dark enough, then either the sky in the photo will be white or the bottom will be black.

Typical example of a high dynamic range scene

We see everything normally, because the dynamic range perceived by the human eye is much wider than that perceived by camera matrices.

Bracketing and exposure compensation

Another concept related to the exhibition is bracketing. Bracketing is the sequential shooting of several frames with different exposures.

Typically, so-called automatic bracketing is used. You tell the camera the number of frames and the exposure offset in steps (stops).

Three frames are most often used. Let's say we want to take 3 frames at an offset of 0.3 stops (EV). In this case, the camera will first take one frame with the specified exposure value, then with the exposure offset by -0.3 stops, and a frame with an offset of +0.3 stops.

As a result, you will get three frames - underexposed, overexposed and normally exposed.

Bracketing can be used to more accurately select exposure parameters. For example, you are not sure that you have chosen the correct exposure, you shoot a series with bracketing, look at the result and understand in which direction you need to change the exposure, more or less.

Example shot with exposure compensation at -2EV and +2EV

After which you can use exposure compensation. That is, you set it on the camera in exactly the same way - take a frame with exposure compensation of +0.3 stops and press the shutter.

The camera takes the current exposure value, adds 0.3 stops to it and takes the photo.

Exposure compensation can be very convenient for quick adjustments when you don’t have time to think about what needs to be changed - shutter speed, aperture or sensitivity to get the correct exposure and make the photo lighter or darker.

Crop factor and full frame sensor

This concept came to life along with digital photography.

Full-frame is considered to be the physical size of the matrix, equal to the size of a 35mm frame on film. Due to the desire for compactness and the cost of manufacturing the matrix, “cropped” matrices are installed in mobile devices, point-and-shoot cameras and non-professional DSLRs, that is, reduced in size relative to the full-frame one.

Based on this, a full-frame sensor has a crop factor equal to 1. The higher the crop factor, the smaller the area of ​​the matrix relative to the full frame. For example, with a crop factor of 2, the matrix will be half the size.

A lens designed for a full frame will capture only part of the image on a cropped sensor

What is the disadvantage of a cropped matrix? Firstly, the smaller the matrix size, the higher the noise. Secondly, 90% of lenses produced over the decades of photography are designed for full frame size. Thus, the lens “transmits” the image based on the full size of the frame, but the small cropped sensor perceives only part of this image.

White balance

Another characteristic that appeared with the advent of digital photography. White balance is the process of adjusting the colors of a photo to produce natural tones. In this case, the starting point is pure white.

With the correct white balance, the white color in the photo (for example, paper) looks really white, and not bluish or yellowish.

White balance depends on the type of light source. For the sun there is one, for cloudy weather another, for electric lighting a third.
Typically, beginners shoot with automatic white balance. This is convenient, since the camera itself selects the desired value.

But unfortunately, automation is not always so smart. Therefore, pros often set the white balance manually, using a sheet of white paper or another object that has a white color or a shade as close to it as possible.

Another way is to correct the white balance on the computer after the photo is taken. But for this it is highly advisable to shoot in RAW

RAW and JPEG

A digital photograph is a computer file containing a set of data from which an image is formed. The most common file format for displaying digital photographs is JPEG.

The problem is that JPEG is a so-called lossy compression format.

Let's say we have a beautiful sunset sky, in which there are a thousand halftones of various colors. If we try to save all the variety of shades, the file size will be simply huge.

Therefore, JPEG throws out “extra” shades when saving. Roughly speaking, if there is a blue color in the frame, a little more blue and a little less blue, then JPEG will leave only one of them. The more Jpeg is “compressed,” the smaller its size, but the fewer colors and image details it conveys.

RAW is a “raw” data set captured by the camera’s matrix. Formally, this data is not yet an image. This is the raw material for creating an image. Due to the fact that RAW stores a complete set of data, the photographer has much more opportunities to process this image, especially if some kind of “error correction” is required during the shooting stage.

In fact, when shooting in JPEG, the following happens: the camera transmits “raw data” to the camera’s microprocessor, it processes it according to the algorithms embedded in it “to make it look beautiful,” throws out everything unnecessary from its point of view and saves the data in JPEG, which you see on the computer as the final image.

Everything would be fine, but if you want to change something, it may turn out that the processor has already thrown out the data you need as unnecessary. This is where RAW comes to the rescue. When you shoot in RAW, the camera simply gives you a set of data, and then do with it what you want.

Beginners often bump into this, having read that RAW provides better quality. RAW does not provide better quality on its own - it gives much more opportunities to get this better quality in the photo processing process.

RAW is the raw material - JPEG is the finished result

For example, upload to Lightroom and create your image manually.

A popular practice is to shoot RAW+Jpeg at the same time - when the camera stores both. JPEG can be used to quickly view material, and if something goes wrong and serious correction is required, then you have the original data in RAW form.

Conclusion

I hope this article will help those who just want to take up photography on a more serious level. Some terms and concepts may seem too complicated to you, but don't be afraid. In fact, everything is very simple.

If you have any suggestions or additions to the article, write in the comments.

When going on vacation or a long trip, you always take a camera with you to capture the bright moments of life, but how to take photographs with an SLR camera correctly and what parameters to pay attention to so that the photo makes you happy?

In this article we will look at all the parameters that you will need for proper photography while traveling, we will try to present everything in a way that is clear even to a novice photographer. After reading our article, you will no longer wonder how to properly photograph landscapes, portraits, architecture and other areas of photography. But first, read our articles about this and that.

As we travel more and more through different countries of the world, we observe the transition of all travelers to SLR cameras, but most of them, having bought a device for artistic photography, take photographs in automatic modes. Why pay that kind of money if a traveler doesn't even want to see what potential a DSLR camera holds? Or maybe he just doesn’t know how to take photographs correctly, perhaps that’s where we’ll start.

You can get photos like this if you follow the basic rules.

We'll start with matrices camera The most important parameter for proper photography is carried by the matrix; the larger the physical size of the matrix, the greater the light transmission capacity, which means the photograph will be much richer and brighter in colors. On budget SLR cameras, the matrix size is 23x15 (crop matrix). In professional technology, the physical size of the matrix is ​​36×24 (full frame or Fullframe), with a full-frame matrix you can get amazing photos, but to properly photograph an object you will need some other parameters that are worth paying attention to.

Size of the cropped sensor relative to the full-frame sensor

A camera with more megapixels. For a modern SLR camera, a number of 18 megapixels or more is quite suitable, but many factories, under the guidance of marketers, manage to cram a huge number of megapixels into the small matrix of some point-and-shoot camera, which is impossible given its small physical size. You shouldn't expect perfect photos from such cameras! Let's give some advice, pay attention to Nikon series SLR cameras from D7000 onwards, Sony alpha series, Canon EOS with two or better one digit before D"" (for example Canon EOS 60D).

All of the above series of cameras do not have a matrix for the wide consumer market, which means that the quality of the matrix remains at a high level, in contrast to the lower series of these cameras, which are well promoted by marketers and which people “peck” so well because of their low price. You already know half the answers to the question of how to take photographs correctly and choose a good matrix, but which mode is better to choose?

Manual modes are highlighted in red

Another parameter for proper photography is depth of field. Now you need to forget all the standard modes (auto, portrait, landscape...) and start using the “ Av, Tv, M, P”, for Nikon these are modes “ A,P,S,M" and others. For the depth of field mode, we need the “ Av” from Canon or “ A” from Nikon. In this mode, you can change the aperture number, which can vary from 1,2 before 22 .

Notice the blurry background

You've probably seen more than once how good photographers take a photo with a blurred background, this is the depth of field and it depends on the aperture. The lower the aperture number, the more you can blur the background, but first you need to focus on the subject you want to highlight. For example, to properly photograph a portrait, you need to set your aperture to around 1.4 to 5.6. To photograph a landscape correctly, you need to set a number from 11 to 22, from such numbers the depth of field will be at its limit and the image will turn out sharp and realistic.

The second point to consider is that the focal length of the lens also affects the depth of field. The longer the focal length, the more the background behind the subject is blurred. The wider the lens angle, the less blur there will be.

Another factor that influences the question of how to photograph correctly is the distance from the lens to the subject and from the subject to the background. Let us explain, portraits need to be taken at a closer approach, having first set the depth of field to the minimum value (for example, set it to 1.4).

Here you see a blurred background in the distance and the subject two meters from the lens

For proper photographing of portraits, there are prime lenses or portrait lenses with a focal length of 35-85mm (for such lenses the minimum aperture value is from 1.2). With such lenses, you are guaranteed a blurred background if the subject is far from the background and you have set the minimum depth of field.

Let’s go further to understand the question of “how to take photographs correctly,” for this you need to study the shutter speed parameters. Nikon's shutter mode is designated "S", Canon's is designated "Tv". This mode is used extremely rarely and is needed mainly for artistic photography. For example, in order to correctly photograph a river that freezes in your picture, we need to take a shutter speed of about 5 seconds, after such a shutter speed we will get this...

The camera is in the shade and the shutter speed is set to 5 seconds

If you decide to experiment with shutter speed, be sure to have a tripod, otherwise the entire image will turn out blurry. The shutter speed should only be used in the evening or at night; in the daytime, the photo will turn out just white due to the large amount of light entering during the long shutter speed. It is also worth considering that in this mode the matrix is ​​especially susceptible to breakdowns and can simply burn out from the sun, for this they use neutral density filters or install the camera in the shade, the filters are put on the lenses and protect the matrix from overheating.

Let's reveal a little secret, if you don't have such a filter at hand, then use ordinary sunglasses, which will give an artistic effect that will change your photo for the better. But sometimes, even with the longest shutter speed that can be set on the camera (up to 30 minutes), the image is still dark; ISO will come to our aid, being another answer to the question of how to take photographs correctly.

Photo taken on Lake Baikal using sunglasses instead of a filter

Light sensitivity (ISO) is set when you decide to take pictures in the dark. At night, when your photo turns out to be dark, but with a flash the photo turns out to be light and flat, the ISO parameter comes to the rescue, which should not be abused. Its value can be set from 100 to 12000 or more, depending on the SLR camera.

The photo was taken in the Tunkinskaya Valley with the ISO setting set incorrectly

To take photographs correctly with this setting, we recommend not increasing the ISO value to more than 6400; then “noise” begins to form in the shadows and your photo loses quality. In order to properly photograph an object at night, of course, many will start using a standard flash; we’ll talk about this parameter separately!

If you decide to find answers to the question of how to take photographs correctly, then forget about the standard flash. A photograph with such a flash turns out to be overly light and flat in volume, if you have extra money, then be sure to buy an external flash, you will take a huge step towards proper photography.

The photo was taken at 3 am in a watery Russian city with an external flash.

At worst, you can use the regular built-in flash, but with a little secret. So, we take a regular white A4 sheet and close the flash, in this case the sheet will serve as a light diffuser and will give the image light, light, three-dimensional tones, and will also remove the “red-eye effect”. This method is good to use in a dark room or at dusk.

On the path to success in the question of how to take photographs correctly, let’s go further and consider the sharpness of the lens. No landscape is complete without sharpness; to get the sharpest image, let's take a look at the lens parameters. The sharpest lenses are prime lenses; zoom lenses lose in this regard; they have blur at wide and far angles.

In order to take a high-quality, sharp and correct photograph of an object, to highlight it from the main plan, you definitely need a prime lens! But there is one big secret - all lenses have their own maximum sharpness number, this number can be calculated by taking several test shots at each depth of field and viewing the results on the big screen. Typically, lens sharpness starts from 2.8 to 11.

The haystack is located at two points where the lines intersect - Perfect composition!

Another most famous and main answer to the question of how to take photographs correctly is the rule of the golden ratio. Divide your image into two horizontal lines and two vertical lines, so the main subject should be at the two points where the lines intersect. Don't forget to photograph the landscape correctly. If, for example, you are shooting the sea and the sky, then either the sea or the sky should occupy more than half the frame (2/3 of the frame). This rule is called correct frame composition and is one of the important parameters of successful photography.

According to the 2/3 rule, the sky is only 1/3, because the entire subject of the photograph is located in a haystack located on the ground

How to photograph a portrait correctly and not cut off anything unnecessary? To do this you will need the cheat sheet below...

Proper portrait framing

We have considered all the technical parameters on the question of how to take photographs correctly, now we will consider ordinary life parameters that should not be forgotten in everyday photography and which will make it possible to ideally and correctly photograph the subjects.

The first thing you need to do is check the battery charge and take a spare battery with you, you will need it at the most opportune moment in your life. Don’t forget to check the capacity of your memory card when leaving home; sometimes it is full and there is only one copy of the photos on it. Don't forget, the more discharged the battery, the more autofocus will miss the subject.

For proper photography, you should also pay attention to the dust on the camera mirrors and lens glass; you can easily check this by photographing a light, plain background. To remove dust, use only a special pencil or other cleaning products for optics and the device.

Cleaning pencil for camera lenses and mirrors

Let's continue to get answers to the question of how to take photographs correctly and do not forget the attributes for the camera, if you are shooting in the dark - do not forget to take an external flash and a tripod, if you take artistic photography at long exposures - do not forget photo filters, a tripod and other accessories.

To take the right approach to photography, don’t forget to dress appropriately for the weather. Before you start shooting, check all the camera settings so as not to miss an important moment, select the optimal mode and values ​​for shooting. If suddenly the battery runs out during shooting, and you have not yet photographed the object you need, turn off the screen, switch to manual lens focusing mode and lens stabilizer.

If water or sand gets into the camera, the first thing to do is remove the battery and do not insert it until the camera is completely dry. If you have a hairdryer at hand, that’s just great. Sand is a different story; sand can cause mechanical damage to the internal mechanisms of the camera, and then you are guaranteed expensive repairs.

By following all these rules and site recommendations described above, you can definitely succeed in photography. But in order to increase your authority in your own eyes, we recommend communicating with photographers on specialized websites and forums, exhibiting your photographs at various thematic exhibitions on the Internet, sometimes even making money from it.

Mount Elbrus was photographed at 5 a.m. to capture all the colors of artistic photography.

Well, all the answers to the question of how to take photographs correctly were written and shown. In order to learn how to photograph correctly, you should always experiment and forget about standard photographing modes. At first, pictures in manual modes will turn out dark, blurry and of poor quality, but after you click several hundred frames with different settings, you will see all the capabilities of a DSLR camera in examples of your work!

Probably every novice photographer who is seriously passionate about his craft sooner or later thinks about buying a DSLR camera. However, you should not think that just purchasing a “DSLR” is enough to start creating masterpieces.

Of course, most SLR cameras are equipped with good automatic settings that allow you to take quite decent amateur photos - but it’s much more pleasant to use the capabilities of your camera to the maximum. And believe me, it can do a lot - you just need to learn how to use it correctly.

So, let's start talking about how to properly take pictures with a DSLR camera.

Focus and depth of field

Surely, when looking at the work of professional photographers on the Internet or in magazines, you paid attention to the difference in sharpness between the foreground and background. The main subject of the photo appears sharp and clear, while the background appears blurred.

It is almost impossible to achieve such an effect with an amateur camera, and this is due to the smaller size of the matrix. The sharpness of such images is evenly distributed across the entire screen, that is, all details have approximately the same clarity.

This isn't always a bad thing, and is great for landscapes or architecture, but when shooting portraits, a well-designed background will distract from the main subject and the overall photo will look flat.

A DSLR camera, having a large matrix size, allows you to adjust the depth of field.

Depth of field of the imaged space (DOF)– the range between the front and rear edges of the sharp area in the photograph, that is, exactly that part of the image that the photographer highlights in the picture.

What affects the depth of field and how to learn to control it? One such factor is focal length. Focusing is the aiming of the lens at the object, providing it with maximum sharpness. DSLR cameras have several focusing modes, from which you have to choose the most suitable one for specific shooting conditions. Let's look at each one separately.

• Single autofocus – the most popular and convenient mode in static conditions, in which focusing is carried out, as mentioned above, by half-pressing the shutter button. Its undoubted advantage is the ability to change the position of the camera at your discretion without lifting your finger from the button. The object you select will remain in focus. The disadvantage of this mode is the delay created by the need to re-focus on the object each time.
• Continuous autofocus – A mode suitable for shooting moving subjects. The focus moves along with the subject, so you don't have to re-focus each time. Of course, this mode has a number of errors: due to changes in speed and distance, the device is not always able to focus as desired, and not every frame will turn out successful. However, the chances of taking at least a few good pictures are also quite high.
• Mixed autofocus – a combination of the first two options. When activated, the camera shoots in the first mode exactly until the object begins to move, and then automatically switches to the second. This shooting mode is well suited for beginners because the camera takes care of focusing problems, leaving the photographer free to focus on composition and other factors.

Learn how to get rid of it early in your career and your path will be easier.

Always try to develop and improve. In addition to practice, theory will also be useful: a large selection of photo sites for photographers.

Good light is essential for high-quality portrait work. You can find out how to make a softbox with your own hands at this address:

Shutter speed and aperture

The second factor influencing depth of field is aperture value.

The diaphragm regulates the amount of sunlight transmitted to the lens by opening and closing the lens shutters. The more open the door is, the more light it lets in. It is with its help that you can distribute the sharpness in the picture and achieve the creative effect you need.

You need to remember a simple relationship:

The smaller the aperture opening, the greater the depth of field.

If the aperture is closed, sharpness is evenly distributed throughout the frame. An open aperture makes it possible to blur the background or other less significant objects, leaving sharp only what you want to focus your camera on.

Excerpt– the period of time during which the shutter is open. Thus, the number of light rays that manage to pass inside depends on the duration of this interval. Of course, this directly affects the look of your photo. The longer the shutter speed, the more “blurry” the objects will be. A short shutter speed, on the contrary, makes them static.

In stable lighting, shutter speed and aperture are directly proportional to each other: the more open the aperture, the shorter the shutter speed - and vice versa. Why this is so is not difficult to guess. Both affect the amount of light needed for your photo. If the aperture is wide open, the amount of light is already sufficient and a long shutter speed is not required.

Photosensitivity

Light sensitivity (ISO)– the sensitivity of the matrix to light when the aperture is opened.

You don’t have to set the ISO value yourself either - you can use the automatic mode, in which the camera will select it itself. But in order to understand what photosensitivity is and what it affects, it’s better to take at least a few shots, raising and lowering ISO and comparing the results.

Its high or maximum value allows you to take pictures in low light conditions, thus being an alternative to flash. This will be an ideal solution for you in situations where flash photography is prohibited - for example, at concerts or other official events.

Also, ISO will help you out in situations where a wide open aperture and a slow shutter speed result in a too dark image. But when experimenting with ISO, you will quickly notice that increasing its value also increases the amount of noise in the frame. This is an inevitable effect, but it can be smoothed out, for example, using graphic editors.

Shooting modes

A DSLR camera has a wide range of shooting modes, which can be divided into manual and automatic. The latter roughly correspond to similar modes on an amateur camera: they are called “Sports”, “Landscape”, “Night Portrait”, etc.

When you select this mode, the camera automatically selects the settings needed for the given conditions, and you don't have to worry about anything else. This is quite convenient, and photographs taken in such modes can be quite successful. And yet, if you set your SLR camera to manual settings, then you are provided with creative freedom, and a person planning to take photography seriously needs to be familiar with them.

So, what are they manual shooting modes are at our disposal?

• P (programmed)- a mode similar to AUTO, but leaving more room for independent actions. Using it, you can independently change the ISO and white balance, as well as correct the shutter speed and aperture automatically set by the camera. All other settings, as in automatic mode, will be selected by the caring camera itself.
• Av (aperture)- a mode that allows you to set the aperture value at your own discretion, without worrying about shutter speed - the camera will select it on its own. Great for portraits and other depth of field experiments.
• S(shutter)– in contrast to the previous option, this is a shutter priority mode. It is easy to guess that in this case the camera will automatically set the aperture. Suitable for shooting moving and dynamic subjects.
• M (manual)– a truly manual mode, in which the camera no longer interferes at all. All settings here: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are at your discretion. With this mode, you can give yourself complete creative freedom and try a variety of combinations in unusual shooting conditions. Of course, you should use this mode only when you really understand the settings of your camera and approach the matter with knowledge.

In everyday, natural shooting the best and easiest way is to use Av mode. It is the most convenient for controlling the depth of field and allows you to completely surrender to the artistic process of creating the best composition.

Flash

Built-in flash– a faithful assistant when shooting in low light conditions. But it, like other features of a SLR camera, needs to be used wisely. If handled incorrectly, there is a high probability of ruining the frame by exposing it. Here are some tips to help you avoid this:

• Use manual flash power control, the value of which can be reduced when receiving too light frames.
• Try it switch the camera to automatic “Night Shot” mode. Unlike AUTO, in this mode the flash action is “softened”, and the light is slightly scattered around the subject, without being fixed only on it.
• Experiment with light scattering(we wrote how to do it here). To do this, you can use white cloth, paper or any other material that will need to be fixed before the flash. But you should not use materials dyed in other colors for this purpose - they can give the skin the wrong shade and generally have a bad effect on the photo.
• Use your camera's modes discussed above - ISO, aperture and shutter speed. After trying different options, you will be able to find exactly the one that will make your photos successful.

White balance

The camera matrix is ​​more sensitive than the human eye and sensitively perceives color temperature. You've probably seen photographs with strange lighting effects: faces in them may appear blue, green, or orange. This often happens when shooting in rooms lit with incandescent lamps. Setting the white balance on your camera will help correct the situation.

Of course use automatic setup (AWB), but then there will still be a risk of error. The best thing to do is to “tell” the camera what color white is, which can be done using manual mode (MWB). First, you will need to select manual white balance in your camera's menu.

After this, it is enough to take any white object, for example, a sheet of paper, photograph it, and record the color as correct. The algorithm may differ depending on your camera model, but if difficulties arise, the instructions will help you out.

Choose a DSLR to start

When choosing photographic equipment to start with, a novice photographer should know about some important details that you should definitely pay attention to when choosing SLR cameras. It is clear that you should not start working on expensive equipment. And not only because of the high price, primarily because, without knowing the basics, mastering the functions of a “sophisticated” camera will not only be difficult, but often impossible. Inexpensive cameras have a lot of tips and automatic modes, which are simply necessary at the start.

Particular attention should be paid to the resolution of the matrix. These are exactly the pixels that are indicated in the main characteristics and on the camera body. But remember that for beginners it is better to choose a DSLR with a crop matrix.

If you're serious about photography, choose a technique with manual settings. In the future, this technique will give you good experience and the chance of great opportunities in this field of activity. It’s better to choose the camera itself from the list of the most recommended DSLR models for beginners, which are produced by well-known world manufacturers. Don’t neglect to contact those who have been familiar with photographic equipment for a long time and will help you in choosing the right camera to start with.

If the abundance of complex terms does not scare you, and you are still full of enthusiasm, ready to work and improve, go ahead! A few simple tips will help you on your creative path:

• In order to learn how to take professional photographs with a DSLR, constant practice is required. Try to take your camera with you wherever you go, and don’t miss the opportunity to take a good shot. Develop your artistic thinking! As a photographer, you need to be able to build the desired composition mentally, separate interesting shots from ordinary ones, and be able to notice what someone else wouldn’t pay attention to.
• Explore your camera's modes and try different combinations. Don't be afraid to squat and take different positions to find the best angle. This way you will increase your chances of getting the desired result many times over!
• Draw conclusions based on the finished material. Note your mistakes—you can even keep a special notebook for this—and try to avoid them in the future.
• Consider the work of famous photographers. The more time you spend on this, the more ideas you will gain and the correct conclusions you will draw. At the initial stages, there is nothing wrong with imitating one of the professionals and copying their work. Over time, you will certainly develop your own style, but at first you should not neglect the experience of others.
• Read relevant literature, watch video tutorials, attend courses, communicate with professional photographers. You need to be fluent in the technical side of the photography process, this will work to your advantage. Before you know it, you will become much more confident in handling the camera.

A DSLR camera is your ticket to the world of professional photography. By working, experimenting, and purchasing additional equipment - such as lenses and flashes - you can achieve the most amazing results. We hope that the information on how to learn to use a SLR camera will be useful to you.

Make the most of your camera, and let him become your reliable friend and assistant in implementing your ideas!

The ability to take decent photographs, although not a direct responsibility of a traveler, is still very desirable.

Nowadays, almost every active person has a SLR camera, but as I noticed, most use auto mode.

Perhaps someone thinks that there is no need for this at all, because the automatic mode already produces good quality pictures, but the fact is that only direct control of the camera provides ample opportunities.

Judging by my inquiries, people would like to use the device settings, but They think that learning photography is very difficult. My article today is intended to dispel this myth.

In this case, we are talking only about fairly high-level cameras, that is, DSLRs and mirrorless cameras. The latter are a much more practical option for the traveler.

First, let's define what it actually is - a good camera on which it makes sense to use manual mode. At the heart of a digital camera is a photosensor called a sensor, which focuses light passing through the lens. In principle, a modern camera is no different from a film camera - the film has simply been replaced with a photo matrix.

Matrix size

So, the most important parameter in the quality of the camera itself is the size of the matrix. I don’t want to go into theory, all this can be read on specialized resources or Wikipedia, I will only note that the physically larger the matrix, the higher the signal-to-noise ratio, and, accordingly, the quality of the picture.

The standard in the consumer segment is considered to be the so-called full-frame matrices (also called full frame), their the size is identical to 35mm film.

Therefore, in photography, all matrix sizes smaller than 36x24 (full frame) are calculated using the crop factor. This crop factor essentially means how many times the sensor is smaller than a full-frame one.

For example, most DSLRs have a crop factor of ~1.5, which simply means that their sensor is one and a half times smaller than a full-frame one. I don’t want to touch on how the crop factor affects focal lengths yet, maybe we’ll talk about that another time.

When talking about high-quality cameras, we can say that the lower limit of the matrix size is within the crop factor limit - 2. Anything that has a smaller matrix can be considered a point-and-shoot camera and is not considered in this article.

How many megapixels do you need?

One more note: for some reason it is believed that the number of megapixels in modern cameras is growing only under marketing pressure. Allegedly, on old low-pixel DSLRs the picture was much better.

This statement is nothing more than retrogradeness and longing for the “warm tube sound.” Increasing megapixels in DSLR cameras combined with new image processing algorithms only improves detail and reduces noise On the photo.

Let's proceed directly to shooting in manual mode. I know that many people associate such shooting with childhood memories, when, under the guidance of a parent, we measured the exposure level with a photo exposure meter and calculated the shutter speed depending on the required aperture. Friends, it’s the 21st century, everything has become much simpler.

Depth of field

Let's return to the camera. We don’t need fully manual mode M, so we turn on mode A. In this mode we control the aperture size, and the camera itself will select the shutter speed. It is very important to understand here that the aperture size determines the depth of field - one of the most important shooting parameters.

Most likely, you have seen more than once how photographers separate the main subject of a composition from the background by blurring. This is precisely the result of using a diaphragm. Remember, the wider we open the aperture, the more the background will blur.

And vice versa, if our composition is a landscape, and we need to sharpen everything that falls into the frame, we need to close the aperture. The numbers indicating the aperture value are in reverse order: that is, at 3.5 the aperture is open wider than at 8, and the depth of field will be shallower.

The second factor influencing depth of field is the focal length of the lens. The larger it is, the more the background is blurred. The wider the lens angle, the less blur.

The third is the distance from the lens to the object and from the object to the background.

That is, roughly speaking, portraits should be taken at a closer approach, with the aperture set to the lowest value (number). Here's an example. I want to shoot a girl in the city, separating her from other people with an out-of-focus background.

I turn the lens to the maximum (most often DSLR cameras come with 18-55mm glass), and I approach the girl with my feet so that she fits into the frame the way I need - full-length, waist-deep, just her face.

Thus, I make the distance between the camera and the subject minimal in this situation, which will allow you to blur the background well.

I set the aperture to the widest value (lowest number), most likely in your DSLR it will be 5.6. I take a photo and get a great portrait.

There are so-called portrait lenses. They are not zooms: as a rule, their focal length is 50mm, but they have a very wide open aperture - 1.4-1.8. The wider the aperture is opened, the more the background is blurred.

Advice: do not photograph people next to walls or large objects, ask them to move away so that there is at least five meters of free space behind them. This will give the photo “air” due to the contrast of the subject with the background.

Now, if you decide to shoot landscape or architecture, you just need to set the aperture smaller (the number is larger). Just don’t get carried away, for matrices with a crop factor of 1.5, at approximately aperture 10, the diffraction limit begins, at which the detail of the image begins to fall. Those who are interested in the nature of the phenomenon go to Google, the rest take my word for it that the aperture should not be set beyond 8.

Excerpt

Shutter priority mode S is used by photographers much less frequently, to solve specific creative problems. For example, we want to photograph a racing cyclist to convey his speed. We set the shutter speed longer (experimentally) and when a biker flies past, we follow him with the camera, pressing the shutter.

As a result, the person in the photo will be clear, but the background will be blurred in movement. It's called wire shooting. But I repeat, shutter priority is used very rarely, especially by amateur photographers. Therefore, 99% of the time the camera is set to aperture priority mode A.

It would seem that since the automatic machine selects the shutter speed itself, then we have nothing to monitor it, but unfortunately, this is not the case. The fact is that the less light there is outside and the harder we press the aperture, the longer the shutter speed is needed for our frame to be exposed.

With a long shutter speed, your hands are not able to hold the camera absolutely still, and the photo comes out a little blurry. Photographers call it a wiggle.

To find out at what shutter speed there will be no movement, you need to look at the shutter speed offered by the camera and compare it with the focal length of the lens. For example, if you currently have a wide angle of 25mm, then the shutter speed should be no longer than 1/25(a larger number in the denominator means shorter, a smaller number means longer).

Thus, by increasing the focal length of the lens, the need for light also increases. In the same place as in the previous example, having turned the lens to 55mm, our minimum shutter speed will already be 1/50.

To combat camera movement, a stabilizer is installed in cameras, and this device allows you to at least halve the need for light. That is, using a stub, with a focal length of 55mm, it will be quite possible to photograph at a shutter speed of 1/25.

What should you do if, no matter how hard you try, you can’t get a fast enough shutter speed and the photos come out blurry? You can open the aperture slightly (just remember that this reduces the depth of field), you can rest your elbows on your stomach, you can put the camera on some object.

The stabilizer prevents blurring due to hand shaking, but if there are moving objects (people, cars) in the frame, then in case of a long shutter speed they will be blurred.

But the easiest way is to increase light sensitivity. I deliberately do not touch upon the possibility of using the built-in flash, because the result will usually be disastrous. Avoid shooting with the built-in flash as much as possible.

Light sensitivity (ISO)

In order to shoot in low light conditions, the camera matrix is ​​capable of working in high sensitivity mode. This means that when you increase ISO by one point, the light requirement is cut in half. If you can’t achieve the minimum shutter speed at which you can take a successful shot, increase the light sensitivity.

Unfortunately, the ISO limit is not infinite - as it increases, the amount of digital noise sharply increases, which eats up details in the shadows, color shades, etc. Improving the photosensitivity of matrices is the subject of improvement in modern cameras, and today it is already quite possible to shoot at ISO3200, with almost no loss in picture quality.

Lens sharpness

All photographers love sharpness. This parameter depends on the optical properties of the lens. More expensive glasses are not always sharper, because other factors determine the price: optics design, weight, dimensions, subjective assessments and, of course, the red stripe on the front lens. 🙂

We must remember that zoom lenses will almost always be less sharp overall than prime lenses. This is easily explained because with a zoom, the manufacturer has to combine too many variables, and for the lens to be sharp at all focal lengths, it must cost and weigh as much as a steam locomotive. Most often, zooms have the greatest blur at the edges: at the widest and farthest angles.

Another important feature is that each lens has its own sharpest aperture. This information is not advertised, but you can find it out by taking several test shots with different values. As a rule, the open aperture is the softest. Therefore, if you want to take a portrait in which every eyelash is visible, close the aperture a little, sacrificing a little background blur.

That's all the information you need to start photographing the way you need, and not the way the camera seems right. In my opinion, everything is very simple if you practice a little. I am sure that by taking a few thoughtful shots that you yourself will like, you don't want to go anymore to automatic mode.

Ah, these wonderful Canon cameras that are just begging to be held! Everyone who works hard, saving money for the coveted EOS, knows what they are doing. Canon cameras are distinguished by high performance speed, enviable autofocus, high image quality and simply magical color reproduction. This is why many photographers (both new and old-school) can spend hours drooling over the display window, looking at the most powerful boxes and lenses.
Since you already own a dream and are eager to learn how to manage it, we suggest, as part of general development, to understand the brands of Canon cameras.

What do the numbers and letters on your camera brand mean?

Most “beginner photographers” who consider themselves at least Lezek Buznowski have no idea what EOS stands for. If you ask such a “professional” what the letter D in the brand of his camera means, he, with an embarrassed look, quietly tries to go to Wikipedia. Well, perhaps a real talent does not need this knowledge, and only those who like to show off in the company of friends remember this, but we believe that in order to learn how to photograph, you must know Canon by heart.

• The abbreviation EOS (Electro-Optical System) is consonant with the name of the goddess of dawn Eos, who can be found in ancient Greek mythology. The first camera in this series was the Canon EOS 650, which was released back in 1987.
• The D in the name stands for Digital.
• Cameras with 3 or 4 digits in their names (EOS 400D, EOS 1000D) are positioned as cameras for beginners.
• If the name has one or two numbers, but they do not start with one (EOS 33V, EOS 30D), then this is a semi-professional camera.
• Canon for professionals is: EOS 5D Mark III, EOS 1D X, EOS 1D C.

Now you are sitting in front of the monitor, and in your hands, for example, a Canon 600d - how to take photographs?

How to take photographs correctly: Canon for beginners

It is known that in Auto mode the camera independently selects the settings in such a way that the result is a suitable exposure. But it’s worth considering that if you shoot in difficult lighting, then even the coolest camera will not always be able to cope with its task. Moreover, you want to learn how to take photographs with a Canon DSLR, using all the possibilities, and not just randomly press a button and wait for your luck. You can take a good photo only after you master the basic settings. Only then will you intuitively figure out how to photograph on 500d, 550d, 7d, 1100d, 600d, 650d, 60d, 1000d and other “d”.

There are three main settings and all of them are related to light in one way or another:

• Aperture is the size of the “hole” opened by the camera that allows light to pass through. The wider the aperture is open, the more light there is in the picture: everything is logical here.
• Shutter speed is the time for which you open access to light to the camera matrix.
• Photosensitivity (ISO) – the higher the photosensitivity, the more light the matrix receives.

Learning to set Canon settings correctly

The aperture of your camera is designated as “f/” + a number that will demonstrate how open/closed the “hole” is that allows light to pass through. If you want a blurred background, open the aperture; if you want a completely clear photo, close it. The wider the aperture is open, the smaller the number next to “f/”.

By adjusting the aperture value, you can focus on a specific object and draw the viewer's attention to the subject you have chosen. Like here:

An open aperture works amazingly well in pictures with butterflies, flowers and small objects. How to photograph a portrait correctly? Canon with an open aperture - nothing is simpler. Do you need to visually distinguish a person from the rest? Again - Canon with an open aperture.

You need to close the aperture when shooting crowds, landscapes and streets, in general, wherever you need the entire picture to be in focus.

Students often ask: how to photograph with shutter speed? Canon is best suited to master this setting. First, you need to decide how you want to capture movement? After all, the longer the shutter speed, the more movement the camera will be able to capture; a short shutter speed, on the contrary, will freeze the moment.

Long shutter speeds are used when shooting a city at night, but you should use a tripod. Also, these interesting photographs are taken with long exposures:

As for the fast shutter speed: it is good when shooting falling objects.

Light sensitivity is measured in ISO units with values ​​of 100, 200, 400, and so on up to 6400. Higher values ​​are used if the shooting takes place in poor lighting, but noise (small dots) often appears in the pictures.

So, before messing around with this setting, decide:

1. Do you have enough light to take a photo at the lowest ISO setting?
2. Do you want a photo with noise or not? Black and white pictures with noise look pretty cool, but it sometimes ruins color pictures.
3. If you have a tripod or any other way to secure the camera? Light sensitivity can be compensated by making the shutter speed longer, but then you cannot do without a tripod.
4. If your subject is constantly moving, then the ISO simply needs to be raised so that the photo does not blur.

You will have to set a high ISO in the following cases:

• Sports games, dancing, indoor children's party. In general, when a short shutter speed is simply necessary.
• In areas where the use of flash is prohibited.
• That moment when the birthday person prepares to blow out the candles on the birthday cake. A flash can ruin the cozy light and the whole mood of the moment, so just increase the camera’s light sensitivity.

How to take photographs with Canon using the full power of the camera?

Daily observations show: The vast majority of SLR camera owners shoot only in Auto mode - green square. And this sad fact makes such an expensive purchase simply pointless. Suppose you paid about 27,00 thousand rubles for your Canon 600d, but in auto mode your camera only works 5400, i.e. The capabilities of an excellent DSLR camera are used by only 20%. Do you want to learn how to take photographs with Canon 600d and other models? Do you want to use your camera one hundred percent? Then remember, or better yet, write it down.

Semi-automatic modes.

In this part we will discuss working with the following modes: P, A (or Av), S (or Tv), M, A-Dep. These modes are excellent helpers for beginners who do not yet know how to take photographs with their Canon, and generally do not know what they are doing. Experienced photographers also highly respect these modes because they save them a lot of time.

1.The simplest mode is P (programmed autoexposure) mode. This mode will help you get a good exposure of the frame, select aperture and shutter speed values ​​depending on what ISO you set. This is incredibly convenient for beginner photographers who are just experimenting with light sensitivity.

You can also change the exposure pair values ​​(exposure parameters of shutter speed and aperture), for example, on a Canon 550d camera this can be done by simply scrolling the video. If you need to set a faster shutter speed, then simply scroll the video to the right, and the camera will slightly close the aperture, keeping the exposure at the same level. This will allow you to photograph any falling object, which will simply freeze in the air in the picture.

2. Mode A or Av – aperture priority.

The whole point of this mode is that it allows you to control the strength of the background blur in the photo. You need to set the ISO value and adjust the aperture yourself, but the camera will set the required shutter speed so that you end up with a good shot. Here you need to decide whether you want a blurred background, then set the appropriate aperture value, and the rest is up to the camera. Convenient, right?

When shooting a portrait on Canon, set the ISO and open the aperture completely (the smallest number) to get a blurred background, and the camera will set the shutter speed itself.

3. Mode S or Tv – shutter priority.

It works exactly the same as the previous modes: you set the ISO, and the aperture value remains up to the camera.

In order to practice using this mode, find any moving object (person, cat, car, fountain): set a short shutter speed - this way you will get a clear photograph of the object “stopped” in the frame. Now set the shutter speed longer, place the camera on any stable surface and gently press the button. Most likely, you will get a beautiful “smear” that reflects the beauty of the dynamics of movement.

4.And the last mode is A-DEP (depth of field priority). By the way, it is not available on all cameras. This mode allows the camera to set the aperture and shutter speed so that all objects in focus are sufficiently sharp.

It’s worth adding that once you mess around with manual settings or semi-automatic modes at least a little, you’ll never go back to the “green square”.

If, after reading this article, you still have questions about what to do with your camera and how to photoengrave on Canon, then our teachers will be glad to see you in their courses.