Connecting elements for metal pipes. Fittings for steel pipes - threaded, crimped, etc. Thread direction

Buleryan is a very unusual-looking stove that can once and for all solve the problem of heating a country house, garage, greenhouse and any other room. It provides quick warm-up with minimal fuel consumption, which can significantly save time and money. This pleasure is quite expensive, but if you like to work with your hands and are not afraid of difficulties, it is quite possible to make a Buleryan oven with your own hands.

In the world of autonomous heating, not the last place is occupied by such a useful device as the Buleryan stove, also known as Breneran. Roughly speaking, it consists of a firebox, to which a series of bent tubes are connected. This design allows you to burn wood and other types of solid fuel with very high efficiency. The cost of industrial models starts at two hundred dollars and increases depending on the size of the firebox. Although the design of such a stove is somewhat more complicated than that of a conventional potbelly stove, many craftsmen have managed to make a buleryan with their own hands.

How does this design work?

Buleryan can be called a very successful hybrid of a potbelly stove and a long-burning wood stove. The device operates using the principle of forced convection. A series of curved tubes are connected to the firebox at the top and bottom. Cold air enters the lower openings, which quickly heats up since the pipes are in direct contact with the firebox. Hot air enters the rooms through the upper openings. Its temperature is so high that it allows you to heat not only one specific room, but even a two-story house. There is also the possibility of combining the Buleryan stove with a water heating circuit. At the same time, the surface of the device itself remains not too hot and does not pose a danger to others.

Thanks to a number of simple adjustment devices, the oven can operate in two modes. First, the stove heats up quickly, and then the resulting heat is distributed evenly throughout the room. At the second stage, the oven switches to slow burning mode. In the beginning, fuel needs to be added quite often, but once the stove warms up, the firebox can be loaded only twice a day, i.e. every 12 hours.

Firewood burns in the firebox, and the products of this process flow through convection pipes into the secondary combustion chamber. Here the gas-air mixture is burned at very high temperatures, which provides the device with an efficiency of around 80%. Next, the hot air is distributed throughout the room through convection pipes.

The process of operation of the Buleryan furnace is clearly presented in the video:

Diagram of the classic "Buleryan"

To successfully make such a stove yourself, you should first study its structure. This is an all-metal structure consisting of a firebox and a number of bent metal tubes adjacent to it. There is a door in front through which fuel is loaded, as well as a power control device with which you can change combustion modes. A secondary combustion chamber is equipped in the firebox and a pipe is installed under the chimney.

This diagram shows in detail the structure of the Buleryan furnace. The main distinguishing feature of the design is a series of curved hollow tubes that are connected to a two-chamber firebox

To increase the efficiency of using the Buleryan stove, it is recommended to thoroughly insulate the chimney, for example, with a layer of mineral wool at least 3 mm thick.

Of course, you will need a blower through which the air necessary for combustion of the fuel will enter the firebox. You can arrange a small ash pit, although the process of slow burning produces almost no waste. The double rear wall makes the device even more efficient. Some models use a two-layer casing for this.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

To make a Buleryan stove with your own hands, you need to stock up on metal pipes with an outer diameter of about 50-60 mm, as well as sheet metal. To withstand high combustion temperatures, it is recommended to use steel sheets with a thickness of 4-6 mm. In addition to a welding machine and a standard set of tools, you will also need a pipe bender.

1. Manufacturing of bent pipe sections.
2. Manufacturing of a device for smoke removal and condensate collection.
3. Manufacturing of dampers for vent and outlet.
4. Making a door for the combustion chamber.
5. Weld a frame of bent pipes and install a partition in it.
6. Welding metal sheets in the space between pipes.
7. Installation of a door with a lock.
8. Manufacturing and welding of metal legs.

Eight identical sections, about 1.2 m long, should be cut from the pipe. Using a pipe bender, they are bent with a radius of 225 mm and placed in a checkerboard pattern.

To make the hollow pipes needed for the furnace, you need to prepare eight pieces of pipe, each 1.2 meters long, and bend them to a radius of 225 mm using a pipe bender

To remove smoke, as well as accumulated moisture, a T-shaped device is made, through which the smoke will go up into the pipe, and the moisture will flow down. To remove moisture, a special tap is installed below. The moisture removal valve should be opened only for these purposes and then closed so as not to impair traction.

Left: The T-shaped furnace smoke exhaust device is designed not only to remove smoke, but also to collect condensation.
Right: The condensate drain valve is located at the bottom of the smoke exhaust and condensate collection device. It should be opened only when necessary, so as not to impair traction.

To remove smoke from the stove, a special damper is made, which is also used to regulate draft.

The damper for regulating the power of the stove is made with a special hole that allows you to change the draft, but does not allow you to completely block the chimney

For the blower, which is located on the front door, you should make a blind damper. To ensure that the flaps are securely fixed in the correct position, a spring is used.

The flap for the blower, which is located on the front door, must be made blind. This will ensure maximum efficiency of the stove in slow burning mode

The most difficult element of a homemade Buleryan is, perhaps, the front door. It should close almost hermetically. The better the door fits to the stove, the more efficiently Buleryan works.

Two rings are made from a large diameter pipe, which fit almost tightly into one another. To do this, cut two 40 mm pieces from a pipe with a diameter of 350 mm. One of the segments is cut and unfolded. After this, the front side of the stove is made using a ring of smaller diameter.

A round hole should be made in the front wall of the furnace, to which a metal ring should be welded. This element is necessary to ensure that the door closes as tightly as possible.

The second ring is used when installing the door; it is welded to a circle of sheet metal.

Two metal rings, the diameter of which is slightly different, are welded along the edge of the oven door. They are sealed with a special gasket made of asbestos cord

Then another ring is welded onto the door, which should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the ring placed on the front side of the stove. A sealing asbestos cord is placed in the gap formed between the door rings and the damper is mounted.

To complete the installation of the front oven door, it is necessary to weld the blower pipe with a damper to it. The damper is equipped with a spring for a tighter fit

Now we should return to the bent pipes. It is necessary to make holes in the first two pipes and weld injection tubes into them. These are small metal elements with a diameter of 14-15 mm and a length of about 150 mm. They are necessary to ensure the connection of the convection elements with the firebox.

Special injectors should be inserted into the first two hollow pipes of the furnace, which will ensure air contact with the combustion chamber

A stove frame with a partition is made from pipes. For the partition, it is recommended to use sheet steel at least 6 mm thick.

For the furnace partition, steel 6 mm thick is used. To avoid having to “guess” with the dimensions, first make cardboard patterns

After this, the gaps between the pipes should be closed with strips of sheet metal, and the back wall should be welded, thus forming the furnace body.

The furnace body is formed from pieces of metal, which are welded in the space between the hollow pipes. Cardboard patterns are also useful for making them.

In order to accurately cut out the elements of the partition, back wall and strip of metal, it is recommended to first make cardboard patterns.

It is recommended to make a special lock for the door. It is an eccentric that secures a metal loop located on the wall of the stove. With further scrolling, this device ensures the tightest possible fit of the door to the stove. To make such a device, you will need to perform a number of turning and milling operations.

Making a lock for an oven door is not easy. Inexperienced craftsmen should seek help from a professional turner or milling machine

All that remains is to make the hinges and hang the door, as well as cut, bend and weld the legs of the stove.

Legs for the furnace can be made from suitable thin tubes, giving them the required shape using a pipe bender or available tools

The manufacturing process of Buleryan can hardly be called simple; an ordinary potbelly stove is much easier to make. But ease of use and high efficiency fully justify the time and effort spent.

The leadership in the manufacture of the Buleryan stove, or as it is also called, Breneran, belongs to Canadian heating engineers, who were tasked with developing an effective small-sized design for heating temporary housing for teams of lumberjacks. The technical specifications were embodied in a solid fuel unit, vaguely reminiscent of the familiar potbelly stove. Due to the improved combustion chamber and the use of forced convection, specialists were able to increase efficiency and reduce the time required to warm up the coldest room. Today, such solid fuel stoves are mass-produced, and the model range of any manufacturer includes up to a dozen units that differ from each other both in power and design. Since factory-made products often have a completely unaffordable price, we recommend making buleryan with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of the Canadian stove

The specifics of using the Buleryan stove initially required compliance with several mandatory requirements, which subsequently made the unit famous throughout the world. The design of the heating device had to ensure:

1. Mobility. Since cutting down trees involves constant movement through the forest, the logger’s stove is constantly transported from one place to another, and from transport to room is carried by hand.
2. Compactness. The unit must have a configuration and dimensions that make it possible to install the device in small temporary buildings.
3. Safety. Since the operation of a buleryan involves installing a heating device directly in a residential area, its design must exclude the possibility of carbon monoxide leakage. This was made possible due to the sealed working chamber and the decision in favor of a single-door design. Another important plus is that the configuration of the body prevents the body of the furnace from accidentally touching the hot metal.
4. Performance. Using forced convection makes it possible to warm up a room in record time. This condition is met thanks to a system of channels that accelerate air exchange.
5. Possibility of long-term work. The configuration of the working area and the design of the blower allows the Buleryan to work for several hours on one load of fuel, and firewood, bark, chips, shavings, etc. can be used as fuel.
   It is not recommended to fire a stove with coal, since due to the high combustion temperature of this fuel, the metal of the body overheats and becomes deformed. As a result, the geometry of the device is distorted, the combustion door does not close, and cracks in the places of welded joints.
   

   It is quite easy to circumvent the manufacturers' ban on the use of high-temperature fuel. To do this, it is enough to equip the lower part of the heat exchangers with a manifold and supply air using any blower. Accelerating heat transfer will reduce the temperature of the buleryan to a safe level.

6. Simplicity and reliability. When developing the design of the solid fuel unit, engineers took into account that it would be operated in places remote from civilization. To manufacture or repair a Canadian potbelly stove, no special equipment or expensive materials are required, and for a beginner to operate the stove, a little instruction is sufficient.

As you can see, the advantages of Buleryan were incorporated into the design at the design stage. Perhaps the developers had no idea that their brainchild would become so popular and would be used both in everyday life and in production. Of course, like any other design, a convection oven of this type is not without some disadvantages. First of all, the unit achieves its declared performance only when using absolutely dry firewood. When the fuel humidity is more than 10%, the released water vapor prevents the flow of air and reduces the combustion intensity, which leads to a decrease in efficiency. In addition, like any potbelly stove, the Buleryan does not retain heat at all - it is enough for the fuel to burn out and the temperature in the room begins to drop.

The disadvantages of the design include the fact that the operation of the stove assumes a gas-generating mode of operation, in which the wood smolders more than it burns. This process is accompanied by increased smoke formation, which leads to the release of harmful substances and tar deposits in the smoke channel. Often the outer part of the chimney and nearby areas of the roof are covered with an oily substance, which does not add any attractiveness to the picture. It is also important that when installing a stove, additional requirements are put forward for thermal insulation and the height of the chimney, otherwise the efficiency of its operation will be reduced.

As you can see, the unit is not without its shortcomings, which both the developers and the owners honestly point out. Nevertheless, the numerous advantages of Buleryan have made this heater one of the most popular units on the market of compact solid fuel equipment.

Varieties with photos and geography of use of buleryan

In order to understand the difference between buleryan, breneran, buller, Butakov oven and other types of convection ovens, let’s take a closer look at all the nuances. First of all, we note that “Buleryan” is a brand of the German company Bulerjan, which produces super-potbelly stoves. Ovens of this type are often called the shorter word buller. “Breneran” are the same units, but produced by domestic factories under license. The furnace developed in Russia by Professor Butakov is very similar in operating principle to the original design, but has some differences:

• recessed convection heat exchangers;
• cubic body shape instead of cylindrical;
• the use of an ash pan and grate;
• flat platform at the top of the cabinet for heating food.

In fact, the use of a grate in a gas-generating unit is unnecessary, since intensive burning of wood is expected only in the first minutes after ignition. In addition, its purpose is unclear, given that it is located below the level of the blower. There are also doubts about the effectiveness of the platform for installing a pot or kettle. When entering operating mode, the temperature of the buleryan rarely reaches even 75 ° C, so it will take a lot of time to warm up the food.

Despite the fact that the heating device was originally designed as a stove with an air heat exchanger, some craftsmen loop convection channels by connecting them to a water heating system. The resulting aquabuller, of course, has the right to exist, but the feasibility of such a solution is questionable. Firstly, the heat capacity of air is 800 times less than that of water, so a furnace designed for convection will operate with reduced efficiency under liquid heat exchange conditions. Secondly, even if we take Breneran as a long-burning unit, this is also irrational, since there are more suitable specialized designs of solid fuel boilers that use pyrolysis. Despite this, aquabullers have found their place in the line of units, which are a modernized buleryan.

To retain heat from a potbelly stove longer, owners use various heat-storing devices that are installed on convection pipes. In addition, buleryans are often wrapped in brickwork, creating a kind of fireplace with holes for warm air to escape on the sides. This option looks good in a country house. According to the owners, the symbiosis of the buller with a brick stove allows you to keep the room warm for up to 8 hours, which is quite enough for comfortable living in the winter.

Despite the fact that the calorific furnace was originally developed for domestic use, currently buleryan is widely used in all areas of economic activity:

• for heating dachas and country houses, including wooden ones;
• in production workshops;
• for heating utility rooms;
• in garages and workshops;
• in baths and saunas;
• to maintain the required temperature in greenhouses;
• as heating units for country cafes and restaurants;
• for heating administrative buildings in rural areas, etc.

The classic buleryan stove is not suitable for heating tents.

When installing a buleryan, be sure to take into account the power and dimensions of the heating unit, since this determines whether the device can evenly heat the entire room. It is equally important to choose the right place to install the Canadian stove, equip the chimney according to all the rules and ensure its regular maintenance.

Design features and principle of operation

When developing Brenaran, Canadian specialists used the long-known design of a long-burning convection boiler, called a calorific furnace. Thanks to the increase in the combustion door, it became possible to load not only chopped logs, but also parts of rhizomes, as well as large logs. The new form of the blower - in the form of a pipe embedded in the loading hatch - made it possible to abandon the two-door design. To regulate the amount of air required for fuel combustion, a throttle was installed inside the blower - a round rotary valve. The external throttle control lever allows, if necessary, to reduce or increase the air flow, thereby controlling the power of the buleryan.

The firebox of the heating unit is a metal cylinder, on both sides of which tubular metal heat exchangers, bent in the form of elbows, are embedded at equal intervals. Due to the fact that two-thirds of the diameter of the pipes are recessed into the body of the stove and are located in the combustion zone, the air receives up to 70% of the heat that is released when burning wood. The remaining kilocalories heat the body of the stove and are subsequently also spent on heating the room. Thanks to this distribution, the body of the buleryan usually heats up to only 60–65 °C, while the air that leaves the convection channels has a temperature of more than 100 °C. It must be said that it is the high heating rate that ensures the active suction of cold air masses in the lower part of the tubular heat exchangers and their release from the upper openings of the heater.

The combustion space inside the device is divided into three chambers. A metal under or removable grate is installed in the lower part of the furnace at a height of up to ¼ of the body diameter. You can do without these elements, but with them it will be easier to light the stove and remove ash. Under the arch of the firebox, at the same distance from the body as underneath, a perforated metal sheet is welded, which does not reach the loading hatch a quarter of the length of the buleryan. The upper chamber is designed for afterburning volatile compounds that are released when the unit operates in gas generator mode.

The combustion products are removed through a hole located in the afterburner chamber, on the side of the rear wall of the unit. A damper with a 90-degree sector cut out is mounted at the beginning of the smoke channel. In addition, around the damper (a metal plate that regulates chimney draft) there is a gap of at least 10–15% of the chimney diameter. This design makes it possible to set the correct draft and at the same time does not allow carbon monoxide to enter the room, even if the smoke channel is completely blocked during intense gas formation.

A horizontal section of the chimney, designed to reduce the temperature of combustion products, extends from the outlet opening, and then an elbow is installed that directs the pipe vertically. Here, “real” units manufactured by Bulerjan are equipped with a device for pyrolysis combustion of gases, called an economizer. The chimney must be high enough to obtain high-quality draft and insulated so as not to allow the combustion products to cool too much. If this requirement is not met, as well as when using fuel with a high moisture content, the temperature in the afterburning chamber will be reduced, as a result of which the content of tar and other unsafe carbon compounds in the flue gases will increase.

Drawings and diagrams of buleryan for making it yourself

Despite the fact that manufacturers keep the exact parameters and drawings of the convection ovens they produce secret, taking dimensions from the finished product is not difficult. Thanks to passionate people, today we have an almost complete set of design documentation. It must be said that when making a buleryan it is important to observe the ratio of the sizes of all parts of the unit, so you can adapt the drawings presented below as an example to your conditions.

Drawing of the buleryan door

What you need to make a Breneran type convection oven

In order to get a truly reliable and durable heating unit, it is made of thick metal. The best material is considered to be heat-resistant boiler steel, which can be purchased at specialized offices. Before starting work, prepare:

• rolled steel sheets with a thickness of at least 5 mm, size 1000x2000 mm;
• sheet of heat-resistant steel 6 mm thick, 400 mm wide and 700 mm long;
• a small piece of steel sheet 3–4 mm thick for making valves;
• steel pipe Ø110 mm - 4 meters;
• round thick-walled pipe Ø57 mm or profile metal pipe with a thickness of 4 mm and dimensions of at least 60x60 mm - more than 10 m;
• steel tube Ø15 mm - 40 cm;
• rings for the door, cut from a pipe Ø350 mm;
• powerful loops for fastening the loading hatch;
• handle with a locking mechanism for the door;
• pieces of steel rod Ø8 mm for the manufacture of air and smoke damper levers;
• asbestos cord.

Often, zealous owners use cylinders or metal barrels to make furnace parts, but the materials from which they are made are not always suitable for the needs that they are going to satisfy with the help of such a homemade product.

Tools and devices that will be needed in the process of manufacturing a Canadian stove:

• powerful pipe bender;
• welding machine;
• angle grinder (grinder);
• cutting and cleaning discs;
• electric drill and set of drills for working on metal;
• hammer;
• roulette.

If possible, it is better to cut the metal sheet with a gas cutter or other special equipment. Firstly, this will save more than one cutting disc for an angle grinder, and secondly, after the gas cutter, the round body parts will only require a little grinding of the edges. If you use an angle grinder, you will need to put a lot of effort into turning the polygons cut out with it into circles.

Instructions for making a stove

When starting to build a calorific furnace, it is better to carry out the work step by step. This way, you will be able to avoid mistakes and miscalculations that may lead to the dismantling of welded parts and the need to remake ready-made components. Our instructions are written step by step and take into account the experience of manufacturing the unit by more than one craftsman, therefore, using the presented algorithm, you will be able to do the work not only quickly, but also efficiently.

1. The pipe intended for the manufacture of convection heat exchangers is cut into identical pieces 120–140 cm long (at least eight sections should be obtained), which are bent at an angle of 75–80 degrees using a pipe bending device. In this case, the radius of curvature should be 22–23 cm, and the discrepancy in the geometry of the parts should not exceed several millimeters.
2. Slots are made on the inside of the two resulting blanks, into which sections of 20-centimeter pipes Ø15 mm are installed at a slight angle to the heat exchangers so that at least 15 cm remain on the outside. After this, all the cracks are carefully sealed by welding. During installation, this pair of pipes is installed at the door, since they will provide air injection into the combustion zone.
3. The pipes are laid one on top of the other, alternately oriented in opposite directions. To make the structure stable, slats are used, the thickness of which is equal to the diameter of the pipes.

   In some cases, an assembly frame is mounted and each heat exchanger is welded. It is important that the protruding parts of the pipes are the same length. The result should be a furnace frame that consists of at least 4 heat exchangers installed on each side in a checkerboard pattern. In this case, the depth of the buleryan will be about 50 cm.

4. The parts of the furnace frame are welded together, after which the lower partition of the firebox is cut out from a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 5 mm. In order to reduce the time for fitting a metal part, a template is made from thick cardboard, and then its contours are transferred to the rolled metal.
5. The partition is installed in place, after which the places where it adjoins the convection pipes are welded with a continuous seam.
6. The gaps between the heat exchangers are also covered with steel strips, with each panel pre-fitted using a separate template.
7. The joints between the furnace body and the pipes are welded with a continuous seam, after which the slag is removed and the quality of the weld is checked.
8. Two similar shaped elements are cut out of a steel sheet, which will form the front and back walls of the furnace. To avoid time-consuming adjustments, during the work process they use the same method of obtaining the exact configuration of parts using cardboard templates.
9. A Ø110 mm hole is cut out in the rear wall for installing a chimney, while in the front wall there is an opening Ø350 mm for installing a loading door.
10. A T-shaped structure is made from two sections of 110 mm pipe, designed to remove combustion products and collect condensate. Its lower part is covered with a round steel flange, which is secured using M8 threaded studs welded to the pipe. To remove condensate, a threaded pipe Ø15 mm is cut into the flange, onto which a 1/2˝ ball valve is installed.
11. A round valve with a diameter of 90–95 mm is made from a steel plate 4 mm thick, in which a rectangular sector is cut out. By bending a piece of Ø8 mm rod at an angle of 90°, a gate axis with a rotary lever is formed.
12. Using an electric drill with a Ø8.5 mm drill, install the rod in the center of the smoke channel, after which the damper itself is welded to it. After this, the T-shaped chimney assembly is mounted by welding on the rear wall of the stove.
13. A blower is made in a similar way. To do this, take a 100 mm piece of pipe Ø60 mm into which a throttle is installed. Unlike a damper, the air damper must exactly match the internal size of the channel and close it without gaps. To fix the throttle in the desired position, it is equipped with a spring mechanism.
14. A 40 mm wide ring cut from a 350 mm steel pipe is welded into the window of the front panel of the case.
15. A front door with a diameter of 370 mm is cut out of sheet metal. In the lower third of the part, an opening is made into which the blower is welded.
16. In order to ensure a tight fit of the door to the combustion window, a gas seal is installed on it. This unit is made from two steel strips 4 mm wide or pipe sections Ø350 mm, for which they are cut crosswise. After this, a part 50 mm long is cut from the circumference of one part, and this section is welded to the other. One of the rings should fit freely into the loading opening, while the other should be installed on top of it with a small gap. The parts are welded to the door, ensuring precise centering of all elements. After this, the gap between the rings is filled with asbestos cord packing - it will serve as a sealing element of the structure.
17. To prevent the door from heating up during operation of the furnace, a reflective screen made of sheet metal is mounted on it on the firebox side. In this case, it is important to ensure an air gap of at least 3 mm and free access of air from the blower to the combustion zone.
18. Hinges and a locking mechanism are welded to the loading hatch. By the way, a tight door seal can be achieved by installing an eccentric bolt, the design of which is illustrated below.
19. The front wall of the buleryan is welded in the same way as the rear panel, after which a hatch and a fixing device bracket are mounted on it.
20. To supply additional air to the afterburning zone, the front wall of the furnace body is equipped with an injection device. Making this unit is not difficult, and its design can be seen in the bottom photo.
21. Legs and stands are welded to the bottom of the potbelly stove in the front and rear parts so that the distance from the edge of the heat exchangers to the floor is at least 200 mm.
22. Buleryan is connected to the chimney, after which the heating unit is ignited and tested.

It is important to maintain precision and accuracy in your work, so it is better to take several measurements each time, work slowly, clean welds and metal edges with a grinding wheel, etc. Don’t forget about safety precautions. It is best to work in the fresh air or in a well-ventilated area, be sure to use protective clothing, safety glasses and gloves.

After testing and installing the unit in a permanent place, its body is painted with a special heat-resistant paint. This will add aesthetics to the potbelly stove and protect the metal from corrosion.

Refinement and modernization of the heating device

The design of the Canadian stove is designed to heat one room, since walls and partitions create a barrier to heated air flows. The installation of a metal unit in residential premises greatly affects the aesthetic value of the interior, and the need to throw firewood in the middle of the night so as not to freeze in the morning can hardly be called comfortable operation. Numerous owners of calorific furnaces are trying to solve these and other disadvantages of buleryan. And, I must say, not without success.

Distributing heat throughout the rooms of the house

In order to heat the whole house with buleryan, and not just one room, corrugated pipes are connected to the heat exchangers of the unit, which are led through the wall of the room, and the opening is ennobled with the help of a decorative grille. Of course, the ideal option is when this type of heating is considered at the building design stage. Then special channels are provided in the walls of all rooms to supply warm air. Nevertheless, even in a house built a long time ago, such a scheme can be implemented if you install a calorific furnace in the basement and run air ducts through the floor of each room on the floor. This fulfills the requirement for heat supply at the lower level and ensures ease of maintenance of the unit.

Air heating of every room in the building will require a slight improvement in the design of the buller. First of all, this concerns the air supply - the natural inflow will not be enough, therefore, on the bottom side of the unit, collectors are installed on each row of heat exchangers, which will ensure the distribution of air coming from the duct fans. The same collectors are installed at the outlet of each group of air ducts. They will mix air masses coming from parts of the unit with different temperatures. Insulated corrugated pipes are connected to the output manifold, through which heat will be distributed to each room. Since the air temperature at the outlet of the heater reaches 120 °C, when laying pipes through ceilings and partitions, the conditions provided for the installation of chimneys must be observed.

Improving the appearance of the unit using brick or stone masonry

If you cover the Canadian unit with brick, you can simultaneously solve several problems:

• increase the aesthetic value of the stove in the interior;
• ensure safety during operation of the unit;
• increase the thermal capacity of the structure.

A buleryan stylized as a fireplace or Russian stove looks especially advantageous, and if in addition to this the front door is equipped with tempered heat-resistant glass, then such a unit can create a unique atmosphere of comfort and homely warmth, while also performing the main function of heating square meters.

If you decide to decorate the Buleryan yourself using bricks, for example, for a bath room, then keep in mind that if the height of the loading hatch is less than 40 cm from the floor, it will be inconvenient to heat the stove, and in addition, the design of the structure will suffer. The masonry should be as close as possible to the furnace body, and the gaps between the brick and the furnace must be filled with broken bricks, which are laid on the mortar. Remember - the masonry will act as a heat accumulator, so how long the stove will remain warm depends on its solidity. We remind you that during operation you must ensure that the inlet and outlet openings of the heat exchangers are outside the “fireplace” and that no construction waste gets into the pipes. It is best to cover the heat exchange channels with a rag at this time.

Converting a potbelly stove for liquid fuel

Despite the fact that the Breneran was originally designed as a wood-burning stove, it can be converted to run on diesel fuel or on cheaper fuel - waste motor oil. Of course, this heating method is not suitable for a living space, but it is suitable for long-term heating of a garage or utility room.

To transfer Buleryan for testing you will need:

• place an oil container on a slight elevation;
• extend the liquid fuel supply hose to the unit;
• cut a hole in the combustion door for the tube to which the fuel supply control valve is connected.

When using used oil, it is important to ensure good traction and correctly regulate the fuel supply. Sometimes, instead of a homemade dropper, a factory burner specially designed for this type of fuel is installed on the hatch. Unlike a home-made device, an industrial nozzle ensures more complete combustion of waste.

Water circuit installation

As noted earlier, inquisitive minds have more than once modified the classic Buleryan to work in a liquid heating system. At the early stages, DIYers tried to loop all the heat exchangers into one circuit. The result was a coil, through which water circulated thanks to the use of a centrifugal pump. Later, a scheme was proposed that was similar to the previously described design for upgrading the unit to distribute air flow throughout all rooms in the house. The upper and lower sections of the heat exchangers were welded into cylindrical collectors, connecting the lower element to the return line, and the upper element to the supply pipeline. Thus, it became possible to install the unit not only in heating systems with forced supply of coolant, but also when using natural circulation of liquid. By the way, the disadvantage of buleryan, associated with the impossibility of working on high-temperature fuel such as coal, is eliminated by itself - thanks to its high heat capacity, water does an excellent job of cooling the walls of the unit.

As for making buleryan “from scratch,” the process is even simpler. Instead of making a frame from heat exchanger pipes, the body of the furnace is made entirely of sheet steel, resulting in a unit of the correct cylindrical shape. On top, the structure is wrapped in another cylinder, which serves as a water jacket. Since the lower part of the potbelly stove heats up weakly, the stove must be moved downwards relative to the casing. In order to make the most of all the heat, some craftsmen manage to install a water circuit at the exit of the smoke channel. In the photographs you can see all the nuances of the described metamorphoses.

If we take into account that pyrolysis combustion of exhaust gases should occur in the vertical channel at the outlet of the buleryan, cooling this section of the chimney contradicts the very principle of operation of the stove, and therefore is hardly correct.

Correct operation and maintenance of the oven

To quickly light the stove, use finely chopped dry firewood, under which paper or cardboard is placed. After the wood is ignited, the main portion of fuel is added to the buleryan. It must be said that thick logs up to 40 cm long are ideal for this unit - they will give off heat for several hours. You should not warm up the stove for more than 20–30 minutes with the damper fully open - Breneran is designed to smolder fuel, so a large fire will simply carry the lion's share of the thermal energy into the chimney. In addition, a red-hot stove may warp or one of the welds may come apart.

After the wood has completely ignited, the stove is switched to gasification mode, for which the gate and throttle are closed. The operation of the unit in gas generator mode is indicated by a small flame under the roof of the fuel chamber, which accompanies the combustion process of the released gases.

The efficiency of the unit depends on how dry the firewood is. Therefore, it is recommended to dry the fuel before loading. By the way, for this you can use the heat of the melted stove itself if you place another armful of firewood on the heat exchange pipes.

Smoke filling the room when a potbelly stove is lit indicates one of the following errors:

• insufficient chimney height. Excellent traction characteristics will be provided by a pipe with a height of at least 5 m, and its upper cut must be located above the roof;
• the gate valve is closed;
• deposits of condensate and soot narrowed the smoke channel so much that normal removal of combustion products became impossible. They need to be removed.

Contamination of the furnace during operation is manifested not only in deterioration of draft. Deposits on the gate prevent its normal closure, and a layer of soot on the internal surfaces of the heating unit significantly impairs heat transfer.

In order to clean buleryan, several methods are used, one of which involves burning out resins and soot. Experts do not recommend burning the unit, since this involves heating the stove and chimney to too high a temperature. In addition, the process is often accompanied by uncontrolled ignition and the release of burning residues onto the roof.

It is best to clean the boiler and chimney using old-fashioned methods, using metal brushes and scrapers. Dirt and oily deposits are removed from the chimney by first removing the flange at its bottom. The inner surface of the combustion chamber can be brought into proper shape using a small paint spatula or chisel.

Remember that if regular use of the buleryan requires cleaning the chimney more than twice a year, it means that the optimal operating mode of the stove has not been achieved. To ensure efficient operation of the unit, experiment with the position of the dampers, determining the position in which the fuel will burn completely.

Buleryan is a slow burning stove. Provides quick heating of the room and economical consumption of firewood. The operating principle of the stove is based on the idea of ​​convection heat exchange. Through the holes in the pipe from below, air enters the oven, warms up and comes out of the top hole already hot. The oven is easy to use. An experienced welder, knowing the basic principles of operation, is able to make a long-burning furnace on his own.

Required tools:

• welding machine,
• Bulgarian,
• metal scissors,
• pipe bending tool,
• small hammer.

Blanks:

• pipes with a thick wall, approximately 50 mm in diameter,
• corner 25x25 mm,
• metal sheet, 5 mm thick.

The main tool used in the work is a welding machine. Therefore, before starting work on the manufacture of the stove, you should check its performance. An inexperienced welder should get his hands on practice welds. Because at the final stage you will have to boil the oven along the entire circuit. The material for the stove is steel sheet and pipes. Do not neglect basic testing of the material for weldability.

The photos below show drawings of the Buleryan stove and approximate step-by-step instructions for its manufacture (assembly and welding of component parts).

Schematic cross-sectional representation of the furnace.

Large photo of the entire drawing in good quality.

This is a small oven. It is suitable for heating garages, greenhouses and small utility rooms. To heat large residential premises, you need to increase the overall dimensions of the stove (and the number of pipes) by at least 1.5 times.

Step-by-step instructions for making a slow burning stove of the “Buleryan” type with your own hands

To cook a Buleryan stove with your own hands, prepare the sheet material for work. Next, we need to prepare pipe scraps of the required quantity and length. Using a pipe bender, shape the pipe scraps into the desired configuration. The shape and radius of curvature of all pipes must be the same. Take into account the need for a straight section at the ends. According to type A, shown in the drawing, cut out the sheet blank. Bend it in the middle at an angle of approximately 160° - 175°.

Having installed the pipes vertically, you need to make spot tacks. Then install the blank for the upper part of the firebox and carefully boil it along the contour. This is the frame of the furnace structure. It is important at the first stages to ensure the symmetry of the product, and you also need to carefully monitor so that the parts do not move during operation and the frame does not warp.

Then make sheet parts of the furnace body. Their number should be the same as the number of planned convection pipes in the oven. Attach the workpiece to the pipe and grab it at several points. The beginning of this stage is shown in the next photo.

The body wall blanks themselves look like this.

After preliminary installation and fastening of all wall elements to the pipes, the furnace blank should look something like this.

As a chimney outlet, you can use a piece of pipe with a diameter of about 100 mm. Pipe thickness is from 3 to 5 mm. We install the back wall with a hole for the chimney and also pre-fix it with tacks. We weld the chimney pipe into the hole in the back wall of the stove. The photo below shows the final version of this stage.

Next comes the manufacture of the front, front, wall of the furnace with a ring welded into it, to which the furnace door will adjoin. We try on the part and weld it with a temporary spot weld along the contour of the front wall. We mark the bottom of the oven with two corners, as indicated in the following photo.

Afterwards, you should check the workpiece for stability, if necessary, adjust the shape of the structure, and only then weld all the joints of the parts and the gaps between them.

The door blank is a circle made of a thick sheet of metal. In its lower part there is a pipe with a damper that regulates the intensity of combustion in the furnace. The door must be installed on its hinges. Then weld the locking lock. Usually these are two coaxial holes, fixed with a pin.

At the next stage of work, welds are cleaned and all surfaces are cosmetically polished. The oven itself, the manufacture of which was described above, looks like this.

You can also take an old boiler as the basis for the stove and use it as walls for the stove. This option is convenient in that it requires fewer welds than the proposed one. However, the option with overlapping walls made of sheet metal strips looks more beautiful than a barrel welded with pipes. But if there is an unnecessary boiler on the household, then it can be used for heating purposes.

A few words about choosing the dimensions of the stove in relation to the area of ​​the room. You need to focus on the technical characteristics of the power and the rate of heating of the air volume per minute. A furnace with a firebox volume of 40 liters heats up at a rate of 4.5 m³/min; with a firebox volume of 50 liters, the heating rate increases to 9 m³/min; with 100 liters this value is already 18 m³/min.

Safety precautions

If you intend to install the stove in a residential area, then the stove is located so that there is a distance of at least 0.5 m from the walls of the house. If you raise the stove above the floor, this will increase the draft and, accordingly, the heating rate. Usually a small podium is made for Buleryan; how to make it is a matter of capabilities and available materials. It is advisable to use non-combustible materials. Ideally, the podium is also a welded structure.

Near the stove, under the firebox, you need to lay a metal sheet so that falling sparks or escaping embers do not cause a fire.

The safety of children deserves special mention. In advertising pictures of long-burning stoves of the Buleryan type, they often depict that the stove is located in the house in the living room or hall. But the stove heats up very quickly and, according to reviews from owners, some of its parts become red hot. In this regard, a person can get burned on the stove by making an awkward movement, and children can touch it out of awkwardness, by accident or out of curiosity. Therefore, it is better to install the stove in utility rooms that serve as a stoker.