The dog scratches the floor before lying down. Obvious and psychological reasons why dogs dig. Other omen options

05/02/2017, 11:00

We love dogs for many reasons: for their unconditional loyalty, intelligence, curiosity. But sometimes their behavior simply baffles us: why does a dog furiously dig the ground, roll around in some bad-smelling muck, or make a nest before going to bed?

Often, strange behavior in dogs is explained by their ancient instincts, dating back to the times when they ran in packs.

Birds aren't the only ones who build nests

Natalie Walford from Arizona has two dogs of the And every night before going to bed, they search the bed. “Bella crawls under the covers at my feet, and then begins to roll and rummage in the bed until she finally rolls out of it,” Natalie says.

Dogs began to be kept in the house only about 100 years ago. Before this, they shook out their meager bedding to get warmer. Also, the ritual of “beating the bed” may be associated with the dog’s instinct to mark territory. Dogs mark the territory that they consider theirs by digging up the ground on it (sweat glands are located on the dogs’ paws, and the smell is retained on the ground, which is well sensed by other animals).
Natalie's dog's behavior is relatively harmless: some of her relatives tear apart everything they can reach with their paws. In these cases, provide your dog with his own bedding filled with wood shavings. It is best to place the bedding in an area that the dog already considers his territory.

To dig or not to dig

Dogs dig for many reasons: to hide themselves, to hide food, to find something, and, ultimately, just for fun. The irresistible desire to dig the ground with its paws goes back to those distant times when dogs dug a shelter for themselves or buried their prey. If a dog sees its owners or other dogs digging, this may encourage it to start digging too.
If digging becomes a problem, place rocks in your dog's favorite spots and mark them with a scent he doesn't like, such as chili pepper. You can also encourage your dog to dig in a certain area by burying a treat there and praising him when he finds it.

According to the book The Secret Life of Your Dog, your four-legged friend may be trying to tell you something while he's digging:
. Holes next to the fence mean something interesting on the other side (or simply that the dog is bored);
. Holes near the house mean the dog is lonely and wants to come in;
. Shallow holes may mean the dog is hot and is trying to find a cool place.


What is this smell?

Many dogs love to roll around in something very smelly, such as last year's leaves, dirt, and even carrion and excrement. Sometimes dogs roll when they want to scratch a wound or scratch. Sometimes they roll around in something right after their bath to get rid of the shampoo smell.
A dog may roll around in something to show that it has found something interesting. Or she may be marking territory. Or she just really liked the smell and wants to take it with her.
Most often, these actions are quite harmless, but if your dog has been rolling around in something very smelly, refreshing his fur with an odor neutralizer will be more effective than shampoo.

So, let's look at the 8 most common dog eccentricities and try to find an explanation for them.

1. "Guilty Face"

Flickr.com/photos/calezu

You come home and discover that the dog has done some mischief and is now sitting there looking guilty.

Many owners think that the dog knows it is to blame.

Actually this is not true. Research has proven that unless you catch your dog in the act of doing something wrong, he has no idea he did anything wrong or why you're angry.

That is why punishing a dog a few hours later is completely pointless: punishment is in no way connected in its mind with past hooliganism.

So where does this facial expression come from? The dog simply reacts to your behavior: angry face, screaming, punishment, etc.

2. Chasing the tail

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Some people find this behavior cute and funny, while others find it annoying, especially if the dog won't stop spinning.

Whether you like it or not, compulsive tail chasing is a sign that something is wrong with your dog.

Typically, dogs exhibiting this behavior were weaned too early (before 8 weeks of age) or are deficient in certain nutrients and trace elements (usually vitamin B6 and vitamin C).

3. Head tilted to the side

Flickr.com/photos/ashleycoombsphotography

This is probably the cutest of all the weird dog behaviors.

There are many such photographs on the Internet, and they all evoke emotion.

However, why dogs tilt their heads to the side remains a mystery. Some people think it helps them hear better.

The second hypothesis states that they behave this way because this behavior is reinforced in them by our praise and admiration.

4. Coprophagia

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This is probably the most unpleasant dog behavior for us. Eating poop is not only very gross, but it is also a known way to spread diseases.

(Not to mention, what owner wants to be licked by a dog that just ate poop?)

Why dogs do this is not known exactly, although we do know that mother dogs eat their puppies' poop to keep the family nest clean.

We also know that starving dogs eat poop to survive.

5. Spin in place before lying down

Flickr.com/photos/cat-sidh

Does your dog spin in place several times before lying down? Maybe she is also digging the litter?

This is one of the ancient types of behavior that dogs inherited from their wild ancestors.

They're just trying to make their bed more comfortable.

Some dogs even “rearrange the furniture,” throwing blankets or beds around to make the most comfortable nest.

6. Sniffing other dogs' tails

Flickr.com/photos/victor_lee

There is a very clear explanation for this behavior: dogs sniff each other's tails as a greeting.

Dogs that meet face to face, with their heads up, ears pointing forward or back in a tense posture, are likely to end their encounter in a fight.

A friendly and relaxed dog will immediately approach the tail of another dog, who should do the same.

7. Reverse sneezing

Flickr.com/photos/ccho

If you've ever heard a dog do this, it probably scared you. It sounds like the dog is going into anaphylactic shock or something.

This is the common name for pharyngeal reflux, caused by irritation in the dog's throat and soft palate. Like regular sneezing, reverse sneezing occurs due to allergies, mites, squeezing by a leash, etc.

Reverse sneezing is a way for a dog to bring air back into the body to get rid of irritants. Some also believe that dogs may do this because they are overstimulated.

8. Wallowing in disgusting things

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You wash your dog and he goes for a walk, finds a dead squirrel and lays on it. Why?

We can't say for sure. Most theories agree that dogs inherited this behavior from their wild ancestors.

This could have been a way of masking its own scent when tracking prey. Or they did it to let other members of the pack know that they had found something good, perhaps food.

It may also be that the dog is trying to mark the find with its scent in order to declare that it is its prey, whatever it is.

Others think dogs simply do it because they like the smell - after all, their noses are 10,000 times more sensitive than ours, so all that stink might just make them happy.

Based on materials from iheartdogs.com

"What's Your Dog Thinking" by John Fisher

Anomalous command

In most cases, what we call abnormal behavior is actually behavior that is natural for dogs, but it happens at the wrong time and in the wrong place. Before we try to stop a dog’s behavior that we think is inappropriate, we should ask the question: “Are these actions natural for the dog?” If the answer is yes, you should consider how to redirect the behavior rather than trying to stop it completely.

It is impossible to stop actions caused by instinct. It is completely natural for a dog to herd a herd, bark, dig, hunt, and so on, obeying instinct, but in some dogs these instincts manifest themselves too sharply and create many problems for their owners. The situation usually improves if the dog is allowed to give free rein to its instincts while walking outside the house or area where it is constantly located.

However, if the behavior changes suddenly, especially in an older dog, then these new actions can be called abnormal behavior for that dog. In this case, you need to analyze recent changes in external and internal factors that could affect the dog’s normal behavior and cause deviation from the norm. Changes in family structure can affect: the arrival of a newborn, someone's departure, someone's extended visit, and so on. Perhaps the reason is changes in the family atmosphere, disputes, illness or death of one of the family members. Change of place

the work of one of the family members may disrupt the usual daily routine. Have there been any changes in the dog's diet or health? Has there been a change in behavior since the heat period? Is there a female dog in heat nearby? All these and many other factors should be considered before choosing a course of action. When dealing with a behavior problem, it's wise to start by spending some time as a detective.

gibberish

If your dog barks too much, it can ruin your relationship with your neighbors, which is understandable. Dog barking can drive owners to despair.

Obviously, first of all you need to understand what provokes barking. Barking to sound an alarm, especially in guard breeds, usually does not cause problems. Barking becomes a problem when the dog does not stop barking after the owner arrives. It is natural for a dog to bark to rally the rest of the pack to defend the den together. The management of the flock's further actions is assumed by the leaders - individuals of a higher rank. If the dog does not stop talking, then it is necessary to consider the relationship between the owner and the dog, and then apply the following method

(see Dog in the Man Pack) . In these cases, techniques based on sound signal are useful. (see Negative reinforcement technique) . The habit of barking in order to attract attention can be influenced in the same way. (see Problems of fears). If it is an alarm bark that occurs from time to time, then trying to enlist the help of neighbors using the sound method may not only be successful, but also serve as an excellent diplomatic move to show them. that you are concerned and ready to do something. You should also consider moving your dog to a quieter area in your home.

If the barking is the result of simple excitement in anticipation of some event, for example, in the car on the way to the park, then in this case, you can use sound to stop the noise. Changing your routine and free-roaming area will also help change your dog's expectations. Even jogging to the park and back without free range can help moderate arousal. If you keep your dog in a travel basket or a special crate in the car, or tie it in the back seat with a leash and collar (but never a choke!), you can also make the dog bark less when excited. In cases where barking is caused by excessive excitement, studying the twelve points of the questionnaire can be very fruitful

(cm. Nutrition problems).

Excitability

I see many cases where owners incorrectly label their dogs' behavior as hyperactive. But if it were true hyperactivity, it would be impossible to control until the root cause was discovered and addressed. Excitable dogs are basically completely uncontrollable animals. In almost every case, the dog can be made calmer by applying certain rules that determine how the owner should build his life and relationship with the dog. Naturally, some breeds are more prone to hyperexcitability than others, such as guard dogs and herding dogs. Regardless of the breed, a dog's behavior should always remain under the control of its owner.

I, of course, understand that hyperactivity is a very serious problem in some dogs and is addressed separately. However, according to my observations, if you change the dog's ideas about the hierarchical structure of the pack and wisely use the method of positive and negative reinforcement, most “excitable” dogs very soon become much less excitable. Means should be used

, recommended in cm.Dog in a human pack, Positive reinforcement technique, Negative reinforcement technique.

the rest of the pack to defend the lair together. The management of the flock's further actions is assumed by the leaders - individuals of a higher rank. If the dog does not stop talking, then it is necessary to consider the relationship between the owner and the dog, and then apply the method described in see Dog in the pack. In these cases, techniques based on the sound signal, which are discussed in

see, Negative reinforcement technique. The habit of barking in order to attract attention can be influenced in the same way.

If the dog barks a lot in the absence of the owner and the barking does not serve as an alarm signal, then it may be a form of fear.

(see Problems of fears).

If it's an occasional barking alarm, then trying to get your neighbors to help you using the sound method may not only be successful, but it will also serve as a great diplomatic move to show them that you are concerned and are willing to do something about it. You should also consider moving your dog to a quieter area in your home.

If the barking is the result of simple excitement in anticipation of some event, for example, in the car on the way to the park, then in this case, you can use sound to stop the noise. Changing your routine and free-roaming area will also help change your dog's expectations. Even jogging to the park and back without free range can help moderate arousal. If you keep your dog in a travel basket or special crate in a car, or tie it in the back seat with a leash and collar (but not in

by no means strangleholds!), you can also ensure that the dog barks less from excitement. In cases where barking is caused by overexcitement, studying the twelve-item questionnaire given in Chapter 9 may be very helpful.

Pugnacity

For aggression towards dogs outside the home, see Problems within the pack.

When there is an aggressive attitude of one dog towards another living in the same family, it is somewhat more difficult to cope with the problem. Usually, by the time they contact me, the owners are already forced to keep their dogs at home in isolation from each other, and this clearly increases the tension in the general atmosphere not only between the dogs, but also around them, because the owners also feel that they live as if volcano

In general, the issue centers around the relationship between two dogs, each of which claims a higher status. The situation can be aggravated by the position of the owners, who are inclined to believe that the dog that has lived longer in the house should be the “main dog”. In reality, this rarely happens. The problem usually occurs when a younger or newer dog challenges another dog for leadership. If left to their own devices, things can be resolved quite quickly, sometimes after just one short skirmish. However, owners do not want to agree that a dog that has lived in the family longer should yield, even if

the animal itself is ready to accept the situation. They scold or punish the attacking dog, then isolate it until things calm down. The trouble is that passions will not subside. By punishing and isolating a dog that may have just established its status, they promoted the rank of another dog that was defeated and therefore of lower status. As a result, everything repeats itself and a vicious circle is created.

Dog fights to determine the leader can create a very tense environment in the house, but the less we intervene, the faster everything will be resolved, provided that both dogs do not have the same genetic rank. see Socialization in human society

.

If both dogs are of the same rank, the situation is somewhat different. The fights will continue and become more and more aggressive. The simplest and most reliable solution is to find new owners for one of the dogs. This is a decision many people are not prepared to make, and therefore the options available are quite limited. If both dogs are uncastrated males, this solution to the problem has been successful in some cases. They determined which of the two dogs had at least a slight superiority over the other. Then a male dog of slightly lower rank must be castrated, thereby establishing a clear status at the hormonal level. Then the uncastrated male must receive confirmation of his higher status from all family members. He should be the first to be greeted, the first to be fed, he should be allowed to sleep closer to the master bedroom, he should be the first to be let through at the door - all without giving him the impression that he has a higher status than people. Unfortunately, in many cases these dogs come to see me after they have both been neutered and they are clearly still equal in status. All that can be done in this case is to try to establish a hierarchy solely through favoritism.

The same situation is possible if there are two bitches in the house. Conventional wisdom holds that a fight between two bitches is the worst of dog fights; they will fight to the death, unlike male dogs. My experience is that these fights are no worse than fights between male dogs, but perhaps I am wrong. Even if the fights of bitches are more brutal, the reason is probably that in the wild only the highest-ranking bitches enter into a period of heat and the frequency of these periods depends on the amount of food at this time. (Mother Nature is very intelligent.) Therefore, bitches fighting is probably a manifestation of the survival instinct of the species.

I found that a similar program for male dogs of the same rank was successful when used for female dogs by spaying the lower ranking female dog.

Natural needs and walking

This is not really a behavioral problem unless we are talking about the habit of getting dirty in the house (see Habit of getting dirty in the house). What I mean is related to the pollution of public places. Dog owners are sometimes their own worst enemies. They know what society's attitude is towards polluting parks and sidewalks, but too many of them refuse to clean up after their dogs. Because of them, the reputation of all dog owners suffers. I fully understand the dissatisfaction of those people who do not own dogs and do not like them. Likewise, I can understand that some owners are embarrassed to clean up after their dogs, especially in crowded places. This is the reason I included this problem on the list. If you don't want others to see you cleaning up after your dog, train him to do his business in a certain part of the garden before you take him for a walk. Many people take their dogs for a walk so that they can relieve themselves, and this is the main purpose of the walk for them, while the opportunity for the dog to exercise during the walk is a secondary matter. Once the goal is achieved, the dog is put on a leash again and led home. Dogs are not stupid animals and soon learn that if you do not rush to fulfill their natural needs, the walk will last longer. If your dog always does his business on the way home rather than at the beginning of the walk, think about your motives for the walk. Just as easily as dogs can learn to put off their natural needs until the moment when it is clear that the walk has come to an end, they can also learn that they are not allowed to frolic to their heart's content until they are done with their chores.

If your dog eats standard food at the same time, you can easily calculate the time when he needs to go out. Take her out into the garden, preferably to a specially designated place, and wait. If nothing happens after ten minutes, take the dog home. After half an hour, try this again. You may need to repeat the procedure several times during the day. (You will see that you will need to take some time to accustom her to this procedure.) Sooner or later, she will have to do everything, and then you need to praise the dog, or even better, treat her with a very tasty piece and then immediately go with her for a very long walk. If, out of habit, the dog repeats the procedure during a walk, clean up after the dog, but ignore it. It will take a dog a few days to understand that if he does his business in a certain place in the garden, he will get something tasty and a nice long walk, but if it happens somewhere else, he will not be paid any attention. The procedure is called “target training,” and most dogs, regardless of age, very quickly learn the benefits of waiting until they get to a specially designated area.

If your dog relieves himself more than once during a walk, he should be allowed to visit a special place in the garden again at the end of the walk. If she typically passes stool three to four times per walk, you may want to consider changes to her diet and eating routine.

Chewing

Puppies begin to chew on objects when their teeth change, so it is important to teach them to accept an indoor kennel (basket or crate training) from an early age. This means that you can lock your puppy in the kennel if you are unable to observe his actions. Most dogs quickly become accustomed to the kennel because they consider it their den. Then

, by giving them something to chew on, their need will be satisfied and your furniture will remain safe (see Problems with Fears).

However, what many people don't know is that some dogs go through two periods of teething. The first occurs when baby teeth are replaced by permanent ones. The second usually occurs between six and twelve months of age, during which time the permanent teeth are strengthened into the jaw bone. In some dogs this can cause quite noticeable discomfort, and then

there is a physiological need to chew. I repeat again: the simplest solution is to accustom the dog to a home kennel and give it something to chew on.

Other reasons may be:

1. An attempt to attract attention. Raise your status and benefit from sound and taste aversion therapy. see Dog in the Man Pack

, Positive reinforcement technique, Negative reinforcement technique

2. Nutrition. see Nutrition

3. Fear and anxiety due to separation from the owner. see Problems of fears

Digging

This behavior is characteristic of certain breeds. It is natural for a terrier to dig, and if he does this, it means his instincts are not being stimulated enough.

Some dogs dig holes to rest on cool ground. This is done mainly by dogs of northern breeds - huskies, malamutes and others, but German shepherds and collies are also not averse to digging in the lawn or cabbage patch. Make sure that during hot weather they are not in the garden where there is no shade or cool place to rest.

A pregnant bitch may dig a hole to make a den for her future puppies. By providing her with a special nest box, you can easily deal with the problem. A bitch who has a false pregnancy may also dig den-like holes in the garden - or on the carpet, on the sofa, if given the opportunity. This problem should be addressed to your veterinarian.

The most common reason why dogs dig in the house is usually related to anxiety and fears (see.

Problems of fears).

Most dogs love to dig. If your dog is digging just for fun, it is wise to provide him with a designated area for this activity. This may cause some inconvenience for you, but the dog will only dig in a specially designated area. Choose an unused spot in the garden and take your dog there. Tie the dog and bury the bone, but so that he can see it. Encourage your dog to dig up the bone. Repeat the procedure two or three times, and then bury bones in the area from time to time - your dog will begin to regularly explore this area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden, because there are bones there. She will also use the area as a place to bury any bone she got from you that she didn't eat. This will satisfy her need to dig.

Biting

Why do adult dogs bite?

see Problems of aggression. Puppies bite for a completely different reason. (See Socializing Dogs 14 to 49 Days Old.) Puppies' needle-sharp teeth can hurt people too, but instead of spanking them for biting during play, we should respond by imitating the reactions of our siblings. - the puppy's littermates, namely to squeal subtly. You will find that they don't bite as hard the next time. Gradually you will be ableteach them not to bite at all. This technique can be used with puppies under eighteen weeks of age. Later, permanent teeth appear and the meaning of bites changes completely. No matter how gently or playfully your dog bites you, it showsher claims to leadership, and they must be stopped at all costs.

Reducing the rank of a dog, described in cm.

Dog in human pack, usually helps to cope with this problem.

Territory marking

It is absolutely clear that the main culprit of the trouble is a male dog who lives with the mistress for some time, being the only “man in the house”, and then a real man appears on the scene - a man. This scenario, or a variation of it, occurs from time to time when hosts report a situation involving marking of territory. Any situation that exists for more than two weeks in which a male dog is assigned the role of leader in the absence of another representative of the male tribe challenging this status can give impetus to the male’s energetic territorial behavior: he begins to mark his territory when another male appears. I have found that asking a client to sketch out a floor plan of the area where the dog most often lifts his leg can help provide clues to solving the problem. The first place the dog invariably marks the master bedroom. (see Problems within the pack

)

Sometimes this behavior is due to hormonal imbalances. If you suspect they are occurring, check with your veterinarian to see if neutering would help. Dogs that constantly sniff outside odors, drool and constantly mark their territory wherever they find themselves usually benefit from castration. In most cases, it turns out that the root of the problem is some change in the usual environment, the dog sees

it is a threat to his status. A newborn baby or grandchild who is regularly brought into the house distracts the owners' attention from the dog and can become such a factor. If this is the case, the main reason is how the dog evaluates his role in the changed situation. Changing the structure of the family hierarchy usually helps resolve the problem. (see Dog in the Man Pack)

Jumping

For dogs, this is a way of greeting and communicating, but it contains claims to leadership. A similar behavior is observed when two dogs meet: the authoritarian dog jumps on the more submissive animal. How does a dog feel when we allow him to jump on us? The habit is formed from puppyhood and is expressed in the form of a greeting, the purpose of which is to beg for food: this is what wolf cubs do when greeting adult wolves returning from a hunt. They lick their lips, trying to get the wolves to regurgitate food. Puppies jump on people for the same reason, instinctively, trying to get to the face. In puppies, jumping is as instinctive as the need to bite. During the period when the playful biting of a growing puppy takes on a different meaning, the meaning of its jumping also changes. If we do not understand that a young dog gets used to jumping, and we allow him everything in the hope that with age he will stop doing this, then we, without realizing it, allow our dogs to assert their superiority over us and our guests. Free entry into our home (den) must be controlled by an animal of the highest

rank. If your dog, pushing you away, rushes to the entrance and jumps on your visitor with its front paws, you should think about your relationship with the dog (see Dog in the Pack). After you have formed the hierarchy you need, the solution to the problem of jumping is to stop attempts at previously learned behavior (see Negative Reinforcement Technique) and teach the dog a different form of greeting.

Teach a dog to sit and he won't be able to jump because when he sits his butt is on the floor (see Positive Reinforcement Techniques

). Forget the old wives' tales about kneeing the dog in the chest or stepping on the back paws, squeezing the front paws with your hands, and the like (see Positive Reinforcement Techniques). Increasing your rank, stopping unwanted learned habits and offering your dog an alternative behavior that will be better rewarded will quickly correct the unwanted behavior and thus the problem will be solved.

Nervousness

Treating and improving the behavior of nervous dogs is very rewarding. We humans feel very sorry for a nervous, timid dog, but we rarely feel sorry for an aggressive dog. Nevertheless, both of these conditions are very closely related, and, therefore, the control programs in both cases will be similar (see Consequences of improper training

).

Nervous dogs exhibit many symptoms that indicate a problem with their diet. This is an area I usually explore very deeply (see Nutrition Issues

). After consulting with a veterinarian, I usually find that one of the homeopathic or Batch's remedies can be extremely helpful (see Veterinary Problems).

Licking

Dogs don't lick you because they like to lick the salt off your skin. Small puppies and submissive dogs usually lick. It is known that some people are flattered by puppyish displays of affection, and they encourage such behavior by the very fact that they do not stop it. Seeing it as a sign of love, we usually respond by saying kind words and petting the dog. In this case, it can easily happen that a gesture expressing submission turns into a gesture of superiority. By reacting so willingly, we ourselves suggest to the rapidly developing young dog that this is an ideal way to attract our attention. In the same way, a spoiled child sometimes uses baby babble instead of normal speech in order to quickly achieve something from his mother.

It is necessary to establish whether licking is a manifestation of submission or, on the contrary, a demand for the dog’s attention to oneself. Ask yourself: “Does my dog ​​lick me after I say a few words to another dog and pet him, or does he lick me under some other circumstances?” In other words, who initiates the interaction? If your dog is showing submissiveness in this way, you should choose a less aggressive form of greeting. Squatting down to praise is a less authoritarian posture than leaning over your dog. Stroking a dog's cheeks and sides is a less authoritarian gesture than stroking the head, neck and shoulders. Reducing the duration of physical contact and using verbal praise instead of stroking also helps. If a dog insists on licking you, then the reason for this behavior is its need to attract attention, and here there is a danger that with a constant struggle for leadership, such behavior can turn into an advantage for the dog (see Dog in the Pack). It can be useful to use sound stimulation without giving a reward (see Positive reinforcement technique

).

Hunt and chase

There are two reasons why dogs hunt: one is the dog's desire to have fun, the other is due to the manifestation of the dog's predatory nature

.

The problem usually manifests itself in chasing sheep, even horses, or trying to catch a cat or squirrel. First of all, I ask: - “Is it possible to avoid such situations?” Obviously, in the case of chasing sheep, this is the simplest and most effective way out of the situation. If it is impossible to exclude hunting, then the incentives designed to dissuade the dog from its activity must be very strong. First, the status of the owner should be increased (see Dog in the Man Pack

) . Then you need to use it separately on different days. training discs and alarm siren described in- cm. Negative reinforcement technique. When the hierarchy is established and the dog responds to both sound signals, we lead the dog to the sheep, on a long leash to be safe. Both the owner and I are armed with discs and an alarm siren. At the first sign of interest, you need to turn on both sirens and simultaneously throw one of the sets of discs on the ground in front of the dog. If the dog still does not rush back to us as fast as he can, we need to repeat the procedure after a few minutes.

The effect of these remedies should be immediate, their goal is to make the dog afraid of sheep. This is where audible aversion signals are used in an unusual way, but if the problem is a compulsion to predation, the alternative is that the sheep will die and the dog may be killed or euthanized.

The escape

The most common form of this behavior is escaping beyond the garden fence. Some dogs are very capable escarpists. They dig under any barrier or break through it, and sometimes jump over the barrier that the owner tries in vain to establish. The best way to deal with this problem is regular walks under the supervision of the owner and keeping him locked up in an enclosure or at home the rest of the time.

There are two important factors to consider:

1. Does the dog have any incentive to run away?

2. Does the dog have the opportunity to escape?

Eliminating the causes is difficult. If your neighbor always gives his dog cookies when he runs to him, then he will definitely run to him.

It is customary for us to place the garbage accumulated during the week in plastic bags on the street, because of this, some dogs have a holiday every week. The lack of impressions also leads to the fact that dogs find some kind of entertainment for themselves. More frequent walks outside of the dog's usual small area will reduce the dog's need to escape.

If you want to prevent your dog from running away, the first thing you need to do is fence off the area. But there is no need to build the fence higher - it is better to direct the top edge into the area at an angle of 45 degrees, this is more effective. If the garden area is large, you can arrange a smaller area in it, properly fencing it. If this is not feasible, you can use the so-called “invisible fence,” a device that is widely used in the United States. It consists of a wire that is laid several inches deep and then a radio signal is passed through it. The dog is fitted with a special collar with a device that emits a warning beep if it gets too close to the boundary along which the wire is buried. If the dog ignores the buzzer and moves even closer, it will receive a mild electric shock. A training program is attached to the system; when it is completed, the dog quickly remembers what it promises when approaching the border. This reduces the traumatic effect of electric shock, which occurs when shock therapy is accidentally used, and the dog learns which of its actions entail unpleasant consequences.

I hasten to add that I am not a supporter of the use of electric shock when training dogs. However, as with sound therapy described in this section above, in relation to predatory hunting, it is worth considering the possible consequences if the dog cannot be weaned by any other means. The system is designed for gardens of a quarter acre or larger. In my opinion, it is expensive, but still its price is only a fraction of what it would cost you to build a fence around a plot of the same area. I have previously recommended this system to people who owned hunting dogs and lived in areas where there were a lot of deer or sheep in close proximity to their homes.

The desire to run away can also be a manifestation of separation anxiety. In this case, the dog, left alone, spoils the carpets near the doors, sometimes damages the doors or tears the curtains to shreds (see Problems of fears

).

Call

This lesson appears to be more difficult for a dog to learn. than anyone else, because disobedience promises her great pleasure. Owners who are not always able to call their dog make the problem worse by putting it on a leash the moment they manage to catch it, and then sternly reprimanding it and leading it home. If the dog does not come to the call, then the fun will continue, and if it does, then everything will be ruined (see Positive reinforcement technique

).

A method that has proven successful is to create new expectations in the dog about returning home. The essence of the method is that the dog’s daily diet is divided into as many equal portions as the dog has walks during the day. If the dog only has one walk a day, it is advisable to replace it with three to four shorter walks. For about a week, the dog is walked on a long leash for safety. After returning home, the dog receives a portion of food (part of the daily diet). Most dogs quickly remember that they are fed after a walk, and this gives them enough reason to want to return to their owner. When you start letting your dog off leash again, on the first three or four walks it is advisable to let him run in new places. The natural instinct, which tells the dog that in a new territory the members of the pack should stick together, is triggered and gives the owner the opportunity to practice calling a dog that has been let loose.

leash.

If dogs respond very poorly to these measures of influence and feeding upon returning home is not a sufficient incentive, then it is good to take food with you on a walk, because the dog treats its food very differently than an occasional treat. Full responsibility for keeping the pack together always rests with the leader, so owners of dogs that show reluctance to come when called should consider their position in the pack hierarchy (see Dog in the Pack

).

Eating excrement

This habit is called “coprophagia.” Strictly speaking, your veterinarian should give you advice on what to do in this case, but I still included this problem in the general list because so many of my clients, when bringing their dogs in for consultation about other problems, mention that their dogs They also suffer from coprophagia.

First of all, this is completely normal for dogs, especially puppies. When they are very young and still in the nest with their mother, the mother usually eats their excrement to keep the nest and area clean. Some puppies acquire this habit by imitating their mother.

Sometimes the habit persists for a long time, but it usually disappears as the puppies mature. There are other reasons why dogs eat their own poop, so in all cases where adult dogs do this, I advise owners to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that the dog does not suffer from pancreatic disease or another disease that may be causing this behavior.

Severe punishment for puppy mistakes, or for the same offense caused by anxiety and fear, can teach the dog that the presence of a pile on the carpet and a person in the room at the same time is a bad sign, and as a result he eats his own excrement to destroy evidence (see Problems). fears

).

Indigestion will be quickly detected by the veterinarian, but sometimes the cause is something else: the diet is not properly balanced and the food itself is of poor quality, so that the dog is not able to extract the necessary nutrients from it. It's not easy to install. In such cases, short-term dietary therapy usually helps (see Eating problems). In almost all cases, with rare exceptions, it is possible to quickly wean the dog from this habit, but only on the condition that, as in solving other problems, the reason that gave rise to it is first identified.

Begging

Most owners understand that their dog begs for food because they themselves trained it when, seeing how it drooled and looked at them tenderly, they gave in to its silent request. The reason why I included this problem in the general list is to emphasize once again: a dog does not beg for food from another dog. She will watch another dog eat something, but always from a respectful distance. Our proverb: “Owning property is almost tantamount to the right to it,” especially when it comes to food, applies to dogs. If the owners allow the dog to invade their restricted area while they are eating, there is a danger that the dog's status will increase, and from there many other problems are not far away.

If the dog was previously allowed to beg, then this must be stopped in the future. The simplest solution is to isolate the dog while the owners eat until the dog learns that it does not eat food intended for people. If begging is not just an acquired habit, then you need to think about whether she is really so hungry as to break the dog law that prohibits intruding into the space where another dog is eating. If your dog is not absorbing the nutrients from the food you

give it to her, she will take liberties when you eat. The solution to the problem is diet (see Nutrition problems). In general, the higher the owner’s rank in the dog’s eyes, the less likely it is that he will allow himself to beg for food. How to raise your owner's status, see A Dog in a Man's Pack.

Visitors

Almost all of my clients who are concerned about behavior problems that can be attributed to excessive leadership claims, as opposed to problems associated with excessive attachment, also complain about their dogs' behavior towards visitors. The dogs are either aggressive towards visitors or overly friendly, to the point where they have to be locked in another room when someone comes to the house. This makes the problem worse. From the dog's point of view, if every time someone comes, he is systematically isolated in another part of the house, then it would be a good idea to quickly send the visitor out (hence aggression) or prevent him from entering (unrestrained, delight). In any case, there is only one answer: you need to raise the status of the owner, so that it is he who makes the decision about who can and who cannot freely enter the house. It is also necessary to stop unwanted acquired behavioral habits (see Dog in the Man Pack and see Negative Reinforcement Technique

).

The habit of getting dirty in the house

see Problems of fears. If your dog gets dirty in the house at night and not out of fear or anxiety, refer to the example given in

- see Problems Related to Training, which talks about a lady who poked her dog's nose into a pile, will help you understand how not to deal with this problem.

The age of the dog should also be taken into account. If she is still very young, the problem will most likely resolve itself. Most dogs learn to ask for a walk quickly and naturally. We can speed up this process with

no through the power of training and techniques, see Natural Needs and Walking, rewarding desired behavior and ignoring everything else.

Sometimes, if the dog was initially taught to do everything on paper, the very fact that the paper is still in its place makes the dog think that it is permissible to walk on paper, because before it was praised and even treated for this. Often, to stop this habit, it is enough to remove the paper and place the bowls from which the dog is fed or its bedding where it used to lie.

As your puppy matures, the digestive process changes, so it may be helpful to regulate digestion through diet. For example, if we assume that in an adult dog the digestive process lasts from twelve to fifteen hours, it becomes clear that it is reasonable to feed the dog at eight o'clock in the morning and at six o'clock in the evening, provided that he can go out again before going to bed. Younger dogs have a relatively shorter digestive cycle, say eight to twelve hours. From this we can see that although eight o'clock in the morning is a convenient time for feeding, if we feed the dog at six o'clock in the evening, he will be desperate for an early morning walk. During the transition period from a puppy to an adult dog, I usually recommend that owners of dogs suffering from nighttime bowel problems move the last feeding to the latest possible time, letting the dog out into the garden after eating, and then gradually shift the feeding time by one hour at a time. month. Switching to a high-density feed can also help because it reduces the volume of food. Training to a portable basket or crate is also effective, see Chewing

.

Habit of pulling on the leash

This habit is common to all dogs with an overly authoritarian character. Most of my clients have attended some sort of formal training course with their dogs, yet the dogs still pull on the leash. Ultimately, the means to rid them of this habit is to deprive them of confidence in their right to go ahead of their master everywhere (see The Dog in the Pack). The immediate task is to find an effective means to stop the manifestation of leadership habits. I am against the use of nooses, because if you are not an experienced dog trainer, then the noose will not help.

I have seen too many cases where my clients came to me with their dogs, which, despite the choke collar, pulled like a locomotive. When examining the neck, damage to the skin and fur was discovered. Those dogs that do not respond immediately to the correct use of a strict collar continue to pull their owners along with them just as much as with a wide leather collar. The only difference is that the noose and the collar are tightened around the neck and gradually cause damage to the skin and muscle tissue.

My main objection to collars is this: although they are sold in most pet supply stores, they do not come with instructions for use or how to select a collar. It's sad that because of television programs dedicated to dog training, most owners sincerely believe that this is how they can (and should) get their dog not to pull on the leash. In reality it is not only

does not solve this problem, but also gives rise to a number of others.

I must admit that I am opposed to any form of restraint that uses pressure either on the neck using a choke or on the bridge of the nose using commercially available special collars connected to a muzzle. They are designed in such a way that they put pressure on the lower jaw and nose.

For this reason, I developed a collar combined with a leash, it is called

Col-leash (Kol-lish). The main differences between this and collars that look similar to it are as follows:. The collar is conveniently fixed on the dog's neck; a special clip prevents the collar from being tightened on any part of his head.

2. The leash is attached to the side of the neck at a point near the ear. This is the point of least resistance, and therefore there is no way the dog will be able to adjust the position of his head to create a straight line with the leash along which he can pull.

Fully adaptable, it can be worn by dogs of any breed without the risk of purchasing a collar that is the wrong size.

The reason that led me to develop this collar is that, based on the principles (see Dog in the Manpack

) , it is important not to give the dog the opportunity to pull or lead the owner and thereby increase its status. There is a very high percentage of dogs that, not recognizing other forms of control and resisting their use, accept Col-leash. It gives owners the ability to walk their dog side by side without using force and allows the dog to maintain a natural head and body position. The front part is not pulled up - this pose has a threatening and defiant character and is inevitable when using other collars that put pressure on the neck. In the same time Col-leash, unlike muzzle-collars, it does not force the dog to keep its head low, which corresponds to the expression of submission.

If you wear

Col-leash on a puppy as a first leash, he will never learn to pull at all, and this in itself will prevent any problems from arising. Because the collar Col-leash Easy to adjust to size, it will “grow” with the puppy, and owners will not have to shell out money for larger and larger collars.

Main distributors:

Alan and Piers Pet Products, Crowhall Farm, Northfield Road, Soham, Near By, Cambridge-shire, CB75UF.

“Sexual Harassment”

In both males and females this behavior is very similar to jumping. Putting your paws on another animal means claiming dominance, but this is more often observed in male dogs. Quite often you can see a young male dog, five to six months old, who tries to straddle someone’s leg or pillow and similar objects, then imitates coitus (makes movements as during sexual intercourse). This usually indicates changes in the dog's hormonal status, which coincides

in time with the onset of puberty. Usually this habit disappears with age, but if it persists in an adult dog, it can put the owner in an extremely awkward position, not to mention the embarrassment of the victim of “sexual harassment.” If, in addition, the dog constantly sniffs everything and marks with its scent (see Marking the territory), then you need to consult a veterinarian and consider the possibility of castration. In most cases, castration successfully resolves the problem. In the absence of other indications that the problem is caused by hormonal changes, it is almost certain that we are again dealing with an attempt to assert our superiority. Dog Rank Reduction (see Dog in the Man Pack) and Sound Therapy (see Dog in the Man Pack)see Negative reinforcement technique) usually help get rid of the problem.

Dogs and adults

Guarding property and toys, owning objects (obtaining trophies) is a dog’s way of asserting its superiority over other dogs. I have already noted in this section that (from the dog's point of view) possession of an object is practically equivalent to the right to this object. Specifically, we were talking about food, but the same applies to toys and other things, such as socks, gloves, slippers, and so on.

Very often, dogs grab an object in the presence of the owner and “challenge” him to try to return his item. This is a clear attempt to gain the upper hand over the owner, although sometimes this behavior is explained by the desire to attract attention. If, when the owner tries to take away an object, the dog growls, its claims to leadership are obvious.

(see possessive instinct)

The importance of having toys as a means of establishing leadership is well illustrated by my colleague John Rogerson, who, like me, is a member of the Association of Pet Behavior Consultants. His book, Your Dog - Its Development, Behavior and Training, explains how the natural need to possess can be used to give the owner the advantage of being the leader.

Possessive instinct

Dogs that guard toys, bedding, and stolen items such as socks and slippers are usually very authoritarian and prone to leadership. Without realizing it, you encourage this behavior by playing with the puppy for fun (tug of war or chasing) when the puppy picks up one of your socks. When he takes a toy or any other object to his bed and threatens you to stay away from this thing, he is trying to get the better of you in this way. The best ways to bring this behavior under control are through the use of sound therapy and indirect confrontation (see chapter, Negative Reinforcement Techniques). Establishing your role as leader is the best way to ensure that such behavior does not occur at all (see Dog in the Man Pack

).

As dogs grow and age, some functions decline. Their memory, learning, perception, vision and hearing may be impaired. This deterioration can lead to sleep problems, which may cause the dog to stay awake at night and sleep during the day. As a result, the dog's activity level may increase (it will begin to stare at objects, wander aimlessly, or bark more) or, conversely, decrease (the dog may not show the desire to self-care, it may lose its appetite). The dog may forget previously learned commands or habits that it once knew well; for example, the dog may not come to the owner when he calls it. As a result, the dog becomes very anxious and may become aggressive. The dog's relationship with you or other pets in your home may change. Some dogs may become too intrusive and dependent on the owner, while others, on the contrary, lose interest in showing emotions, they are not interested in the owner’s affection and communication with him. Understanding the changes your dog is undergoing will help you sensitively and effectively address your dog's maturing needs.

Be sure to report any changes in your dog to your veterinarian. You shouldn’t take the position that “the dog is just getting old” and there’s nothing you can do to help it. Many changes in a dog's behavior can be signs of illness. Remember that there are a variety of treatments available to help relieve symptoms and any pain your dog may be experiencing.

Of course, as your dog ages, you should contact a veterinarian or animal behavior expert (such as a certified pet behavior consultant). But don't forget that even an aging dog needs you to play with it, it needs exercise and training. You may need to adapt the exercises to suit your dog's slower pace of movement and lower energy levels. When choosing exercises, it is worth taking into account reduced vision and hearing, as well as other medical indicators. Talk to a certified professional dog trainer to suggest some interesting exercises for your aging dog. Be patient with your dog's slow reactions and teach him new commands. If your dog is hearing impaired, your dog trainer will show you how to replace verbal cues with hand signals, so you can easily tailor the training to your dog's physical condition. There are many ways to keep your dog's life interesting without strenuous exercise. Just like humans, dogs need to maintain their physical and mental health at all times. You either have to take advantage of all the opportunities or you will lose them.

Checking for cognitive dysfunction

Below is a list of possible changes and symptoms in your adult dog that may be signs of cognitive dysfunction.

Confusion, loss of orientation in space

  • The dog gets lost in famous places
  • Goes to the wrong side of the door (where the hinges are)
  • Gets stuck and can't get out on his own

Relationshipssocial behavior

  • Has little interest in petting, interacting, greeting people or other dogs, etc.
  • Needs constant contact, becomes overly dependent and intrusive

Increased or monotonous activity

  • Looks at one point, fixes gaze on objects
  • Wanders aimlessly
  • Frequently licks owner, family members, or objects
  • Barks a lot
  • Eats more and faster

Decreased activity, apathy

  • Less interested in exploring new places, less responsive to what is happening around her
  • Takes little care of himself
  • Eats less

Anxiety increased irritability

  • Seems restless and excited
  • Behaves very restlessly when separated from family members
  • In general, behavior is characterized by increased irritability

Disturbed sleep patterns

  • Sleeps restlessly, wakes up at night
  • Spends more time sleeping during the day

Memory and learning - defecating in the house

  • Defecates at home in different places or within sight of the owner or family members
  • He defecates at home, even after returning from a walk.
  • Defecates where he sleeps (for example, in a basket, on a rug, or on the floor)
  • Virtually no body language (postures and signals associated with feelings)
  • Incontinence develops (accidental urination)

Memory and learning - work, tasks, commands

  • Shows diminished ability to work or complete tasks
  • Sometimes does not recognize familiar people or animals
  • Decreased response to familiar obedience commands, sports and play tasks
  • Cannot learn new tasks and commands or learns new things very slowly

Identifying other causes of unusual dog behavior

If you notice any of the symptoms or changes listed above in your dog, the first thing you should do is take your dog to a veterinarian to determine if there is a medical reason for the behavior. Any medical or degenerative disease that causes pain, discomfort or reduced mobility, such as arthritis, dental disease, hypothyroidism, cancer, impaired vision or hearing, genitourinary diseases or Cushing's disease, can lead to:

  • increased sensitivity and irritability
  • increased feeling of irritation when the dog is touched or approached
  • increased aggression (that is, the dog is more likely to bite than run away)
  • decreased response to your voice
  • inability to adapt to change
  • inability to defecate in normal places.

If medical problems have been identified, if behavioral problems have nothing to do with the animal's aging process (for example, problems began several years ago before the dog's aging), then such behavioral changes are signs of brain aging. Typically, in such cases, veterinarians diagnose “cognitive dysfunction syndrome.”

Treatment of cognitive dysfunction

The initial syndromes of cognitive dysfunction include:

  • Confusion, loss of orientation in space
  • Decreased response and recognition
  • Activity change
  • Sleep disturbance
  • Defecating in prohibited places

Cognitive dysfunction syndrome can be treated with the drug selegyrine hydrochloride (trade name Anipryl). There are many other medications and supplements that your veterinarian may recommend. Comprehensive treatment will be most effective, depending on the individual problems your dog has.

Aging behavior problems and their treatment

Anxiety, including those related to separation

Some of the most common problems noted by owners of aging dogs include increased sensitivity and irritability, a sense of fear of unfamiliar animals and people (sometimes accompanied by aggression), impatience to be touched, a constant desire to contact the owner, and increased anxiety when the dog is left at home alone. In addition, hearing loss also causes dogs to bark more and become more restless. Your own despair and anxiety will only make your dog's condition worse.

If your dog's defecation in the house has become a problem, some owners of aging dogs have advised that they can be locked in a crate. Unfortunately, keeping a dog in captivity will only increase his anxiety, especially if the dog has never been kept in a crate before. If the dog is uncomfortable in the crate or if he cannot control his urination or bowel movements, he will have the urge to run away or hide.

If a dog is bothered by the absence of its owner, it is called separation anxiety. The main signs of such concern:

  • Anxiety begins even before the owner leaves. The dog begins to follow the owner, breathes heavily, has increased salivation, trembling or depression.
  • Feces directly in the dog's house or sleeping area. The dog ruins everything, barks a lot immediately after the owner leaves.
  • Destruction aimed at exit points from the house: windows, doors. Pooing in the house when you left.
  • Refusal to eat when the dog is left alone. Even if you leave food, treats, or a toy with food, the dog will only engage in them when the owner returns home.

The most important factor in diagnosing separation anxiety is whether the behavior occurs only in your absence. If this behavior is observed in the presence of the owner or family members, then there are likely other problems. For example, if a dog defecates at home both when the owner is not present and in his presence, then the problem may be that the dog is poorly trained. The same goes for destruction. If a dog chews things in the presence of the owner, then this anxiety is not related to separation.

A clear sign of separation anxiety in aging dogs is restlessness at night. The dog practically perceives your dream as a form of separation. The dog may stay up all night, walk, breathe heavily, touch the owner with its paws and demand attention. This type of anxiety indicates some undiagnosed illness. A thorough examination by your veterinarian is essential to determine what is causing your dog's anxiety.

Treatment for breakup anxiety is treated in the following ways:

  • Monitoring all dog medical problems
  • Desensitization and stimulation of replacement of an unwanted reaction.

For more detailed information on desensitization and stimulation of replacement of an unwanted reaction, read our article. In order to help your dog, you need to understand for yourself what actions cause his irritation. Pheromones and certain medications can be used to treat anxiety and improve a dog's cognitive function.

Excessive barking

Barking in an aging dog can become a problem because he barks too often or does so at inappropriate times, such as when you are sleeping. Barking when a dog is restless is either plaintive howls or excessive whining. If your dog only whines when you leave, then this is likely an indicator of separation anxiety. If your dog vocalizes when you are at home, it is worth contacting a dog behaviorist or veterinarian to determine the cause of this behavior.

Hearing loss, cognitive dysfunction, central nervous system disorders, and medical conditions can all cause excessive barking. Your dog may howl or whine if he has a new urge to urinate or defecate, asks for food, or is in pain. If your dog has become more fearful and restless, barking may be a sign that he is afraid of something or that something is causing him stress, such as noises or visitors. You should not punish your dog, this will only increase his anxiety.

Once the cognitive dysfunction has been treated, you can begin to correct the dog's behavior. For some dogs, it is enough to conduct training to develop calm behavior and reward if the dog behaves calmly. Other dogs need a bark control collar, such as a citronella collar. Drug therapy may also be helpful if your dog's barking is motivated by anxiety.

Restlessness / Waking up at night

Dogs that sleep a lot during the day may be overly excited and active at night. Some dogs begin to overreact to certain things they previously ignored, such as the garage door being opened or the newspaper being delivered. You can keep records to understand what exactly is causing your dog's nighttime activity.

Changes in sensory function, such as loss of vision or hearing, can have a negative impact on the depth of your dog's sleep. A dog's sleep patterns may be caused by cognitive dysfunction or another type of central nervous system disorder. Ask your veterinarian to do a complete physical exam on your dog to look for medical problems that are causing agitation, discomfort, and an excessive urge to defecate. First, you need to treat the medical problems, and only then gradually begin to train the dog so that it resumes its normal routine. Try to extend your dog's daytime and evening activities by taking him on more frequent walks, prolonging your dog's favorite games, practicing obedience, and giving your dog food toys or chew sticks. You can also consult with your veterinarian about comprehensive treatment with medications to promote sleep or medications to promote daytime activity.

Faeces at home

As with all behavior problems covered in this material, any medical problem can cause a dog to defecate in the home:

  • Weakening of the senses
  • Neuromuscular diseases affecting dog mobility
  • Brain tumor
  • Cognitive dysfunction
  • Endocrine system diseases
  • Any medical condition that increases the frequency of bowel movements or reduces the dog's ability to control his natural needs.

If your dog defecates at home only in your absence and shows other signs of separation anxiety, then it is probably separation from the owner that is bothering the dog (see the previous section “Anxiety, including separation anxiety”).

Since dogs do not adapt well to change, aging dogs may begin to defecate at home with the slightest change in their schedule, environment, or change of residence. Once a dog has chosen a place for the toilet inside a house or apartment, this can become its favorite place, and it will always return there, even if you wash everything thoroughly. Determining the reasons for a dog's behavior often requires a complete history of the dog's behavior, recorded by a qualified professional. This could be a certified animal behaviorist, veterinarian, or professional dog handler.

Once the medical problems have been identified and treatment has been completed, the dog can be retrained using the same methods as a puppy to correct its behavior at home. These methods include:

  • Placing your dog in a crate or other small area away from the previous elimination site when you cannot fully control him
  • Regular, frequent walking and searching for new places to go to the toilet

You may need to adjust your schedule to accommodate your aging dog's need to eliminate more frequently. If you don't have this option, hire someone to walk your dog at the required times.

Destructive behavior

As with other behavior problems in aging dogs, it is necessary to determine what is causing the destructive behavior. Signs of destructive behavior:

  • Perverted appetite (i.e., eating inedible objects)
  • Licking, sucking and chewing of body parts, household objects or family members
  • The dog scratches and scratches the floor.

Each of these signs can have different causes, so a thorough medical examination, as well as a complete history of the dog's behavior, is necessary to determine the causes of this behavior. For example, dogs that constantly lick, chew, or have a voracious appetite are likely to suffer from cognitive dysfunction. But if your dog suffers from anxiety, phobias, or is afraid of specific people, situations, objects, then these disorders need to be treated. The next section, “Fears and Phobias,” talks about this in more detail. A small change in the dog's environment can help. For example, limit your dog's access to places where he exhibits destructive behavior, buy him new interesting toys that he can chew.

Fears and phobias

Decreased sensory organs, cognitive dysfunction and anxiety can all contribute to fears and phobias. The first step in treating these problems is to control medical problems and cognitive dysfunction. Aging dogs may be afraid of noise and thunderstorms, and in rare cases, a dog may develop a phobia of walking outside, being in a certain room, or walking on a certain surface. The despair of the owners in such a situation is understandable, but punishment will only make the situation worse. Try to keep your dog away from the source of the fear. An animal behaviorist can help treat and change your dog's emotional response to things that frighten him, resulting in positive changes in his behavior. Talk to your doctor about taking medications or pheromones to treat anxiety and panic.

Compulsive and stereotypical behavior

Compulsive and stereotypic behavior problems involve a variety of behaviors with numerous possible causes. These types of behavior are defined as constantly repeated behavior that has become a ritual and has no specific purpose or function. This, for example, is constant licking and excessive grooming, which leads to the dog causing damage to itself. That is, when licking, the surface of the skin is injured and so-called hot spots appear. Also, the dog may constantly play with its tail, jump for no reason, beat the air with its paws, look at the shadows or the wall for a long time, and eat inedible objects. Sometimes this may be due to cognitive dysfunction. Compulsive disorders often occur in conflict situations or when the dog is anxious. Situations that cause a dog to feel stressed or anxious can lead to biased behavior that over time can become compulsive. Displaced behavior is behavior that occurs outside of the normal situation when the dog is experiencing stress or anxiety. For example, a dog that suddenly stops grooming itself because its owner just called it. The dog is nervous because he doesn’t know if the owner wants to punish him. In this case, it is recommended to undergo a course of treatment with medications. However, if you can identify the source of the conflict early and resolve it, drug treatment may not be necessary.

Aggression

Many factors can cause a dog to behave aggressively. Increased aggression can be caused by medical conditions that affect the dog's appetite, mobility, thought processes, senses, or hormones. Events in the family, such as a wedding or divorce, death or birth, can cause aggressive behavior in a dog. When a new pet arrives in the house, the dog may direct its aggression towards it. As a dog ages, it becomes more restless and sensitive, which can also lead to aggressive behavior towards unfamiliar people or animals.

Aggression cannot be effectively treated until an accurate diagnosis is made and the cause of the aggressive behavior is determined. Experts will be able to assess the situation and help you treat your dog's aggressive behavior. Depending on the type of aggression, the following treatment methods can be distinguished:

  • Treatment with medications
  • Behavior Treatment
  • Changes in the dog's environment

For example, treatments for fear-based aggression include desensitization and stimulation to replace the unwanted response, as well as training to improve your control over the dog. Some medical conditions that cannot be treated may limit the improvements that can potentially be achieved. The best solution in this case would be to deprive the dog of the source of its aggression. Putting a harness on your dog's head will help you control it better and keep others safe.

26.01.2018

What to do if your dog digs in the bed? Resign yourself, educate or look for reasons for special behavior? Let’s make a reservation right away: if you find torn sheets or a torn pillow, don’t hesitate to scold your ward; perhaps the reason is not a desire to fool around, but absolutely natural needs.

Every dog ​​has a den!

Let's start by debunking guesswork and assumptions. Wild dogs, and our pets descended from them, live in dens. Unlike burrowing animals, a dog only needs a small depression in soft earth or under a hillock. The main purpose of equipping a den is to hide from the eyes of predators and sleep.

It is important to understand that a dog that lies with its closed eyes may not sleep, but doze. In a state of drowsiness, the animal hears everything and senses the approach of a person/animal. In a state of sleep, the dog does not see, hear or smell. Deep sleep is the most vulnerable period for wild animals.

The den is convenient and even necessary for “sitting out” bad weather or extreme heat, because no one will help a wild animal if it is unwell. Having received heatstroke , the dog will most likely die, and a minor cold will leave the predator without a hearty meal. For domesticated pets this may be a small thing, but for a wild dog it is a threat to survival.

A den is needed toprotect the offspring. A wild mother dog cannot protect her puppies all the time; she needs to drink, hunt and take care of herself. Puppies are left without protection and care for several hours at a time and their only chance of survival is secrecy.


All of the above reasons directly relate to the situation when a domestic dog digs a bed. In addition to the bed, your pet may dig through blankets, carpets, laundry piles, bath towels...anything that looks like loose soil. You can watch how the four-legged animal enthusiastically digs the sofa, nothing comes of it, but then the dog spins around in this place and lies down. Hence the conclusion - the presence of a den for a domestic dog is not so important, but the ritual is important.

Digging in the bed indicates thatthe dog is not sure of its safety, she can’t get enough privacy to get a good night’s sleep. Carefully evaluate the improvement of your home; can your pet hide under a table or sofa or rest in an empty room? Does your pet have a designated sleeping area? If the answers to these questions are negative, here is the reason! The dog is digging your bed, trying to dig a safe den.

How to stop a dog from digging in the bed

Even the most loving owners are unlikely to put up with torn sheets, blankets or even damaged mattresses. Many owners react sharply to the presence of hair and saliva on their bed linen... and this is not surprising. Does your dog dig in the bed and you have decided to eradicate this habit? Be patient - it is possible, but it will require enterprise and time.

Let’s say right away that it is impossible to wean a dog off its survival instincts., and if you try, most likely you will traumatize your pet’s psyche. Basically, there are three options:

  • Come to terms with it.
  • Strictly monitor the dog and do not let it near the bed, and if you overlooked it, accept it.
  • Redirect your pet's actions in a peaceful direction.

We are only interested in the last option, and in order to start implementing it, we need to complete a number of preparatory measures. Provide a comfortable, quiet and, if necessary, closed place for your pet to sleep. Some dogs don't feel safe without a roof; to remedy this problem, you can buy or make a makeshift canopy.

Do you have space, but your dog keeps digging up your bed? The next step is where to dig. You can put a cardboard box with rags next to the lounger; believe me, dogs are not stupid and the pet will understand why she was given such a gift. As soon as the four-legged climbs onto the bed, say Fu and take him to the box with rags. If the pet is at least interested in the allowed place or stomps around in it, praise generously.

Note! Some dogs are much better at digging in improvised holes with paper (for example, crumpled newspapers or pieces of wallpaper). The rustling will continue, but your bed will remain unharmed.

Did not help? Then you will need a bulky soft item or a piece of thick fabric (large). The idea is that this needs to be piled on top of the dog's bed so that it forms a folded mound. This is, perhaps, a redistribution of the desires of all “den” dogs.

Note! As soon as the pet has an alternative option to digging in the bed, any attempts to repeat the usual ritual should be stopped. That is, either the four-legged animal should be prohibited from climbing onto the bed, or allowed to rest on the bed, but attempts to dig should be stopped. Until you are sure that all conditions have been created for the animal to feel safe, you cannot scold him for digging the bed!

To dig means to mark

A very important nuance of dog psychology that every owner needs to understand. If a pet stubbornly digs the floor, blanket, mattress, she considers this item to be her sleeping property. Having scratched the blanket, the dog marks it and don’t be surprised if it tries to steal property or looks at you with an uncomprehending look when you once again pray to the dog gods. Scratching the floor, digging the bed, things, bedding - this is a “symptom” of infringement. Your pet has no property and is forced to appropriate what seems suitable to him.


Another nuance is that between the dog’s toes there are glands that secrete a secretion with an individual smell. When the pet scratched the sheet, he marked it with a scent. This scent is stronger than yours (to the dog) and has more meaning. You can get rid of the markings by washing or treating them with fragrances, for example, if your pet has appropriated a sofa, carpet or bulky blanket.

Important! Remember to speak to your coachee and explain your motivation in an appropriate tone. When the leader of the pack says: “This is mine, you can’t ugh! “A well-mannered dog understands that it is laying claim to someone else’s property. If your cries are ignored, consider whether you are"leader".

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