Block post for service dogs fastening diagram. Training of guard dogs. Free site security

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An important condition for the use of guard (guard) dogs may be a specially equipped post. A guard dog post is considered to be a section of terrain or a closed area inside buildings and premises, adapted for protection with the help of a dog.

Objects of protection can be very different, as well as methods of use for guard dogs. It is logical that the posts of guard dogs are also different:

• free guard post;
• checkpoint;
• post of a blind (short) leash.

Requirements for placing a guard dog post

The place where it is planned to set up the post must be dry, level, without grass. There should be nothing obstructing the view: unnecessary objects or bushes. For the post, choose the place furthest away from the guard. The post should under no circumstances be illuminated at night, but the area in front of it should be illuminated. In winter, the guard dog post should be promptly cleared of snow.

Free guard post can be equipped only on the condition that the protected area or object is surrounded by a continuous fence at least two meters high with an entrance gate. The protected area should be cleared of debris, prickly and cutting objects.

To equip standard checkpoint, it is necessary to stretch a cable with a diameter of 1 cm or a wire with a diameter of 0.6 cm between wooden posts at a distance of at least 1.5 meters. Throughout the checkpoint and for a width of at least 8-10 meters, the area should be cleared of objects that may interfere with free movement dogs. In the center of the resulting area is placed, into which the dog can enter by slightly pulling the chain. A wooden shield measuring 0.75 x 1 m should be placed at the entrance to the booth.

Tether post It is advisable to install it directly near the protected object: at the door of a warehouse or any other office space. The dog is placed on a chain connecting the harness and a specially equipped pole or ring, attached to a ring secured in the door frame of the guarded premises or in the bottom located at the post. The length of the chain should allow the dog to freely approach the door of the room it is guarding.

To protect stores, warehouses, warehouses and other premises that may contain food products, dogs should not have free access to them. It is also important to securely store substances that can poison the animal. Objects in the room should be placed taking into account that the dog should have free access to doors and windows.

Each guard dog should be posted at the same post in accordance with the post schedule.
It is best if the dog is at his post around the clock. If this is not possible, periods of reduced visibility due to weather conditions should be chosen for guarding with dogs.

Medium, above-average and large dogs of all breeds are suitable for use in guard duty; they have good hearing, vision and sense of smell, are courageous, distrustful, angry and resistant to weather fluctuations. The best dog breeds for guard duty are Caucasian, Central Asian, South Russian and East European shepherd dogs.

Guard dogs are trained on a leash. For training, it is necessary to have protective arms made of materials of different colors, training raincoats, protective suits, straw harnesses covered with canvas and shaped like a stick, strong metal chains and special harnesses for a guard dog.

Persons not associated with the work of servicing dogs are recruited as assistant trainers. The trainer himself treats them in front of the dog as strangers. Before working with the dog, assistants become familiar with the techniques of the work to be done. They must act boldly, energetically, fully embracing the role of the “violator.” Before each lesson, assistants are informed of the task, the specifics of their actions, where to go to the dog, signals that the trainer will quietly give, etc.

Special techniques for training guard dogs are as follows.

Development of anger and distrust towards strangers. The command "guard!"

Practicing the technique is outlined on page 192. For a guard dog, the technique is intensified. The assistant, being in the shelter, makes first strong, then quiet rustling sounds. Coming out of hiding, he stealthily and hesitantly approaches the dog. The trainer attracts the dog’s attention to the rustling sounds and to the assistant by commanding “guard!” If an active, angry dog ​​immediately reacts to rustling sounds and to the helper by barking at him, the trainer encourages him with the command “good!” and stroking, then repeats the command “guard!” A less active dog becomes excited only when a helper approaches with a stick in his hand. The trainer encourages the dog to bark and lunge at the assistant, who, throwing the stick, runs for cover. A very calm dog becomes excited when the assistant tries to attack or swing a stick at the trainer. In all cases, it is necessary that the assistant does not suppress, and the trainer increases the dog’s activity. Exercises that greatly excite the dog are carried out no more than 2-3 times in each session. Having made sure that the dog is active and alert, the trainer leaves it on a leash alone and, constantly observing its behavior, if necessary, returns to the dog to help and encourage its correct actions.

In subsequent sessions, the assistant, if the dog does not respond to him, approaches the dog, inflicts light blows on the back and sides with a tourniquet or stick, holding the stick in one hand or the other, and gets the dog to grab the stick or safety sleeve. At the same time, the assistant tries to give the dog food from his hand. Having achieved a strong grip, he throws the stick. When he grabs the sleeve, he stops fighting the dog. The trainer runs out and frees him from the dog, encourages the dog and takes the assistant away. It is recommended to conduct classes at different times (evening, night, early morning, etc.).

To satisfy the dog and completely discharge its nervous system, the grip of the “intruder” is introduced. The assistant in these classes must be dressed in a training raincoat and a safety suit. A brave, agile, energetic and dexterous assistant when working with some dogs may be limited to a protective sleeve.

The technique is combined with the previous one. As soon as the dog pounces on the approaching assistant and tries to grab him, the latter begins to run away from her with a frightened look. The trainer, releasing the dog from the leash, replaces the chain with an extended leash and commands “take it!” (or “fase!”) and sets the dog on the fleeing assistant, and he himself runs after it. At this time, the leash should be loose. The assistant offers his sleeve to the dog that has caught up with him for a grip. After the grip, he struggles with the dog, tries to hit it with his second hand, screams as if in pain, and stops fighting. The trainer, intercepting the leash, runs up to the dog, takes it by the collar, commands the assistant to “stop!”, encourages the dog and leads it away.

Further classes become more difficult: the assistant intensifies the fight with the dog; the dog develops a grip on the hand or leg with which the helper strikes it; the assistant throws off his training cloak and runs away from the dog. If at the same time the dog grabs the cloak and flutters it, not paying attention to the assistant, he runs up to it and strikes. This will distract the dog from the coat and redirect its attention to the helper.

Tethered service(fixed post). Such a guard dog post is installed near a protected object, for example, in front of the entrance to a warehouse that has no other doors, to a stable, to a barnyard, to a garage, near individual units, cars, etc.

To tether the dogs, they dig up a post with a diameter of at least 12–15 cm and a length of up to 1 m, which should rise 30 cm or more above ground level. A bracket is hammered into the end of the post and a chain up to 2.5 m long is attached. The soil around the post is compacted tightly. To shelter the dog from bad weather, a light three-walled booth (without a front wall) is installed. In winter, bedding is laid at the bottom of the booth. The booth is placed so that the dog cannot get tangled around it with a chain.

After practicing the techniques of developing anger and distrust of strangers, and refusing the offered food, the dog is taken to a post and introduced to a new place, where they then begin to train. Having given the command “guard!”, the trainer discreetly signals the assistant to come out of hiding. Its appearance is organized at very different times; first soon after placing the dog at the post, then with a delay of an hour, two, three or more. The trainer first leaves close to the dog, observing it, and finally, if the dog independently and correctly reacts to the appearance of the assistant and other persons approaching the post, leaves it alone at the post.

Further training and polishing of the dog's service on duty consists of training in the evening, at night and early in the morning, increasing the time the dog remains on duty. The dog is periodically trained and the quality of its work is checked.

Service at the checkpoint(movable post). A mobile post is an area on the territory of a protected facility that is closed by a guard dog on a leash. The harness is connected to a pulley that moves along a wire stretched along the protected area. The post area is cleared of trees, bushes, manure, and trash to a width of 5–10 m.

The permanent checkpoint has a length of 20 to 80 m. At the ends, barked pillars-rails or metal pipes 3 m long are installed. The diameter of the pillars is 15–20 cm. The pillars-supports are buried in the ground to a depth of 1 m, secured with crosses, strong compaction of the soil and stretch marks in the direction opposite to the wire stretched between them at a height of 2 m.; The sag in the middle can be no less than 1.75 m from the ground. Wire cross-section 5–8 mm. Before fastening it to the post, a metal ring is put on the wire, to which the dog’s chain is attached. The chain must have a swivel to prevent the chain from twisting. At a distance of 2.5–3 m from the support posts, ring and chain movement limiters are placed on the wire so that the chain does not get tangled around the post when the dog runs along the wire. Restrictors (Fig. 62) can be made of rings of larger diameter or in the form of metal or wooden plates.

Rice. 62. Guard dog checkpoint equipment

a - checkpoint, b - design of a block chain movement limiter that prevents the dog from going behind the post

At checkpoints located near flammable areas, a ring covered with leather is used, or instead of a ring, a block roller is put on the wire, sliding along the cable without sparking, especially if it is regularly lubricated or has a non-ferrous metal wheel.

At some sites (with frequent loading and unloading operations at different times of the day), they practice installing a checkpoint on a wire that lies on the ground and does not impede the passage of vehicles to the storage facility. One end of the wire is attached through a ring soldered to it to a hook driven into the pole. This wire can be easily removed if necessary. Sometimes transport crossing areas are covered with wooden shields. The described checkpoint is set up with a length of no more than 20–30 m. Its pillar supports rise above the ground by no more than 15–20 cm and are secured in the ground with stepsons.

Training a dog to serve at a checkpoint begins with developing an indifferent attitude towards the sound of the block chain ring and accustoming it to movement along the entire length of the block. To do this, the trainer, having put the dog on a chain, moves with the dog along the wire in one direction or another, plays with it, which distracts the dog from the noise of the ring. First, the trainer moves along the wire at a walk, and then at a run. A dog accustomed to new conditions is trained as in a stationary post (see page 212). The assistant appears from the front of the post, arousing the dog's anger (she barks and rushes at him). Moving along the wire and dragging the dog along with him, the assistant teases it and, when he guides it along the entire block in this way, runs away.

It is often required that a guard dog at a mobile checkpoint react equally to the assistant and strangers approaching the rear of the post. Several exercises with the appearance of an assistant trainer from the rear will teach the dog to react to all strangers approaching the post from any side.

At the security checkpoint, on one front side, a three-walled lightweight booth is equipped with a shield in front of it, so that a dog that has pulled the chain can enter the booth, but not go around it.

A portable checkpoint is used in places where it is impossible to install a permanent checkpoint, but a guard dog is still needed. It consists of trestle-type supports, wooden or metal. The lower ends of the sawhorse have a metal attachment or are pointed for penetration into the ground. The post clamp has a through hole for passing and fastening wire at a height of up to 1.5 m. Guys 2 m long end with pins buried in the ground. The distance between the trestles is 20–30 m. To secure the trestles and their stability, additional guy wires are installed on the side adjacent to the protected building or area (Fig. 63). The rest of the equipment at the portable checkpoint is the same as at the permanent one.

Rice. 63. Portable checkpoint on trestles

1 - support (goat), 2 - clamp, 3 - wire with a diameter of up to 8 mm, 4 - guy, 5 - pin, 6 - additional guy

To serve at a portable checkpoint, one of the guard dogs trained to work at a permanent checkpoint is stationed.

A circular checkpoint (Fig. 64) is used for all-round dog protection of a separate building. The wire lies closed, freely on the corner and entrance contours of the building, allowing the ring to move freely along its entire length around the building. The contours on the corners and other protrusions of the building are made of firmly installed plates or strips up to 1 m high.

Rice. 64. Circular checkpoint

1 - protected object, 2 - cable (wire with a diameter of 8–10 mm), 3 - bypass (plate, sheet of iron, pipe)

A rigid circular checkpoint on brackets (Fig. 65) is installed near a building intended to be protected by a guard dog. Brackets are attached to the corners and ledges of the building at a height of up to 2 m. A T-iron beam or rail is welded or bolted to them. The beam is rounded at the corners. A U-shaped or semi-oval bracket is hung on the heel of the beam or rail. Roller wheels are attached to the ends of the bracket, which should rotate around the fastening bolt and slide along the beam. A pin with a ring is cut into the lower part of the bracket, onto which the chain of the guard dog is put.

Rice. 65. Detail of a rigid circular checkpoint on brackets

1 - bracket, 2 - I-beam, or narrow-gauge rail, 3 - bracket with rollers, 4 - chain with carbine

The training of a guard dog is the same for all checkpoints.

Free guard. Free guarding is used to protect from the inside gardens, estates, poultry houses, and various premises with valuables (administration, warehouse, store, etc.) surrounded by a fence or high hedge.

Training begins after the dog develops distrust of strangers and refuses food and is carried out in an area surrounded by a fence. Having introduced the dog into the area, the trainer gives it freedom and gives the command “guard!” The assistant behind the fence makes noise, knocks, tries to climb over the fence, shows himself to the dog and finally steps on it. When the dog barks, the trainer runs up, commanding as he goes “guard, okay, guard!”, helps the dog and sets it on the assistant with the command “take!”. After several lessons, the dog itself will look for a stranger, sniff and bark at anyone who approaches the fence.

The pampering and mischief of children and adults who, passing by, needlessly tease the dog, should not be allowed.

The dog's vigilance is checked by rare, but always unexpected and at different times, appearances of the assistant in the protected area.

Free guarding by dogs of the territory of a large farm, enterprise, or warehouse enclosed by a fence is practiced in compartments (Fig. 66) running along the perimeter of the outer fence, for which an inner fence 2–5 m high is installed parallel to the outer fence, at a distance of at least 3–5 m from it. 2.5 m, usually half mesh. The length of each compartment is up to 100 m. A fence 2 m high is placed between the compartments, covered on top with sharpened pins, mesh or barbed wire. The entrance to the compartment for letting dogs in is cut in the middle of the inner fence in the form of a door that can be locked with a latch. Inside the dog's compartment they make a canopy or a three-walled booth.

Rice. 66. Compartment for free guarding

1 - external fence, 2 - barbed wire, 3 - mesh, 4 - internal fence, 5 - entrance to the compartment

Guard dogs placed in the compartments, trained to guard freely, prevent not only the entry of strangers into the territory of the farm, but also someone’s hidden departure from the territory, as well as the possibility of throwing any objects over the outer fence.

When guarding indoors, the guard dog is brought into the premises after finishing work. Before bringing the dog in, the trainer carefully inspects the room and makes sure that there are no pieces of food or poison for rodents left on the floor, that everything edible is removed and closed, that the room is ventilated, not heated, etc. A feeder and bedding for the dog are brought into the room .

During the first nights the dog works indoors, you should visit it several times and stop it when trying to get out of the room, gnawing and damaging things and furniture in it. Before being placed in such a position, the dog is taught to distrust all strangers, anger is developed in it, and refusal of food is reliably practiced.

They teach with an assistant, who at different times makes various rustles and knocks on the walls of the room, near the windows, from the attic, from the basement. After making sure that the dog is alert and responds by barking when a stranger approaches the premises, the trainer directs the assistant inside from different entrances. Upon entering the room, the assistant seeks to attack the dog. At the moment of struggle, the dog barks at the assistant, the trainer enters, helps the dog and encourages it. Such classes are held as often as possible and always at different times. Then they are made more complex. The assistant, entering the room, offers the dog food, commands, and when attacked, gets scared of the dog and hides from it on tables, shelves and screams for help. The appearance of the trainer is accompanied by the detention of the assistant, taking him away and rewarding the dog.

If the dog retreats from the assistant who has appeared, is indifferent to him, takes food or follows his commands, the assistant angers him, inflicts light blows on him and gets the dog to grumble and bark, to which the trainer immediately appears.

The dog that guards the premises is fed after the service and 4–6 hours before being assigned to duty.

A young dog can be trained for guard duty using the imitation method. To do this, she is placed on a chain together with an adult working dog, close to the latter. Seeing the actions of an adult guard dog, the young one begins to participate in them, barking at those approaching the post. The trainer supports these actions of the young dog by giving him treats and allowing him to natter the helper more often. The final refinement of techniques with a young guard dog is carried out at the post.

When guarding unfenced areas with valuable crops (orchards, berry fields, melon fields, vineyards, nurseries, gardens with early vegetables), the guard keeps a trained guard dog with him, alerting him to the noises made by the assistant. When the dog closely monitors those approaching the protected area and barks at the assistant, the guard goes towards the approacher, holding the dog on a leash. To avoid being bitten by people who accidentally approach, the guard should not let the dog off the leash.

You can use a dog to detain a person, for example, a fleeing thief, only after warning three times with a whistle and a voice: “Stop! I’m letting the dog in!” Approach the person who has stopped with a dog on a leash.

During the night, the watchman walks around the protected area several times with the dog running freely. When it is thrown at a person found on the site, the watchman quickly approaches him and stops the dog’s attack.

A guard dog is of great help when guarding poultry houses, protecting birds not only from thieves, but also from predatory animals and birds. However, it must first be accustomed to an indifferent attitude towards poultry. The easiest way to do this is when the dog is still young, and first on one type of bird (for example, chickens, farm-bred chickens). When the dog is lying down, the trainer brings the bird and feeds it at a certain distance from the dog, which is gradually reduced by throwing food to the bird; sometimes, in front of the dog, he takes the bird in his hands, speaks to it affectionately and allows the bird to walk around the lying dog. The dog’s attempts to rush at the bird, grab it or press it with its paws are immediately stopped with the threatening command “no!” (“ugh!”), jerking the leash and slapping the dog. For a calm attitude towards the bird, he encourages him with his voice (“good!”) and gives him a treat. Then he conducts the same lesson in another place with 2-3 or more birds and achieves an indifferent attitude from the dog towards them.

During classes, the trainer sometimes scares the bird with a sharp wave of his hand or stamping his kogi, which flies up. The dog’s attack on the fluttering bird is stopped with a sharp command “no!” (“ugh!”) and a strong tug on the leash. A further complication of training is leaving the dog and birds alone. The trainer watches the dog from a hiding place and stops attempts to rush at the bird with a sharp shout of “no!” ("ugh!"). Subsequent classes are carried out without a leash or harness on the dog.

Having achieved a calm attitude between the dog and the bird, the trainer moves the training to the territory of the poultry farm, where he leads the dog through bird walks, leaving it among the birds, and observes its behavior. Only after the guard dog develops an indifferent attitude towards the bird does it begin to be transferred to guard the poultry farm.

You cannot feed your dog a dead bird that has not been feathered, or a broken egg found on the farm.

To teach the farm birds to protect themselves from birds of prey, the trainer encourages the dog to attack crows and jackdaws: he throws stones and sticks at the crows, accompanying the dog’s barking and throwing with the command “good!”

The guard dog itself will look for predatory animals (fox, ferret), stray dogs and cats on the farm by smell and will attack them. She should not be prohibited from searching for a predator. A fight with a predator and its destruction raise the guard dog’s “interest” in service.

Training a guard dog to guard a vehicle (passenger car - from the inside, truck - from the platform) begins with practicing such techniques as distrust of strangers, refusal to feed, guarding on the command “guard!” In order to accustom the dog to the car, take several walks around the car with the engine off, then with the engine on. Then the trainer takes the dog on a car ride. The dog is seated near the open glass (window) of a passenger car or at the side of a truck in the direction of movement, towards the air flow. In the middle of the trip, the dog is allowed to walk freely for encouragement. The dog should not be fed before the trip. When riding on the platform of a truck, you must protect your dog from strong shocks and shocks.

A dog accustomed to a car willingly goes into it. The dog is lifted onto a truck with high sides by hand or taught to jump over the lowered side or climb up the ramp.

The trainer begins guarding training while he is in the car with the dog. An assistant approaching the car - a “stranger” - teases the dog, swings at it, opens the car door, tries to hit the dog, give it a treat, and shouts at it. The trainer sets the dog on the assistant, encourages its barking and attempts to grab it, while at the same time holding the dog and preventing it from jumping out of the car. The assistant runs away from a dog barking and rushing at him, leaves the car, returns again and teases the dog, repeating this 3-4 times. The trainer encourages a malicious attitude towards the assistant.

During the next lessons, the trainer leaves the dog alone in the car, alerting it with the command “guard!” The leash is attached so that the dog, angry with the assistant, does not jump out of the car. Subsequent classes are conducted with different assistants.

Later, when training to guard a passenger car, the dog, freed from the leash, is locked in the car, the trainer gives the command “guard!” and leaves. The assistant approaches the car, teases the dog with his sleeve through the open window of the car, gets him to bark and grab the sleeve, and runs away from the dog, first after the grab, then as soon as the dog barked at him and rushed towards him while trying to grab the door handle. The trainer who appears in response to the noise encourages the dog.

To train the dog to be alert in the car during the entire time the handler is away, helpers approach the car at different intervals.

Having made sure that the dog is reliably guarding the car, the trainer begins to accustom the dog to the driver or the owner of the car, for which he takes the dog for walks in his presence and allows him to feed the dog. Having achieved a good relationship between the dog and the driver, the trainer can leave the driver in his place.

To develop an indifferent attitude in dogs towards people passing by cars, the trainer should not encourage the dog to bark even in the first lessons. This will force the dog to lie calmly in the car and rush only at those who come close to it and grab the door handle.

When training to guard a truck, the dog is placed on a platform from which it barks at an assistant trying to climb onto the platform or standing on the fender of the vehicle towards the cab doors.

Guard dog training. To maintain a state of constant alertness of guard dogs at posts, and to consolidate the skills developed through training, scheduled and unannounced inspections of the dogs’ service are necessary. The time and procedure for inspections are coordinated with the administration of the farm and its security. Based on the results of the checks, classes with dogs that made mistakes are resumed. From time to time, all dogs undergo training sessions on special techniques for training guard dogs, especially such as alertness, refusal of offered and thrown food, distrust and anger towards strangers.

Standards for the work of guard dogs. The working hours of guard dogs at posts are determined by the work schedule of the farm. The duration of the dog's continuous stay at the post should not exceed 10 hours. On frosty days, depending on the air temperature and wind direction, this time for dogs at stationary posts is reduced by half or three times.

The behavior of guard dogs at posts is monitored by a watchman on duty.

The use of a dog to apprehend an actual offender is permitted in the event of an attack on a guard, an attempt to escape from the scene of a crime, or during an escort. But even in these cases, before the dog is allowed to detain a person, a three-time warning with a whistle and voice is required: “Stop! I’m letting the dog in!”

The main thing in the work of guard dogs is the following.

1. Warn by barking (from a distance of at least 40 m) that a stranger is approaching the post, fight the intruder who comes close to the post, refuse the food offered by him and the execution of commands given to him.

2. Maintain attention and alertness during the entire time spent on duty in any conditions.

3. Don’t be afraid of shots, light flashes and various kinds of noise.

4. When standing guard freely, bark, attack and detain an intruder who has entered the protected territory (zone, compartment).

A dog is a person's reliable friend. For the owner of a dacha or garden plot, the dog serves as a guardian of the territory, home and your property. Known to be best guard duty carried by breed shepherd dogs: Caucasian, Central Asian, South Russian. These animals are large, hardy and unpretentious. They have thick wool, so they take root well in places with any climate.
The East European or German Shepherd is also easy to use as a guard dog, but is still inferior to the three previously named breeds. The Moscow watchdog is often found in gardens and summer cottages in central Russia, but it is dangerous to keep it on a chain - it quickly becomes embittered, and then it can be risky to communicate with it. But even an ordinary mongrel can be a good guard dog on the site.

Any dog ​​you use on your property as a guard dog should not be kept on a chain at all times. She must have designated working hours, after which it is necessary to release the dog from the chain and give it a rest. If a dog guards your house and property at night, in the morning you need to remove it from the chain and transfer it to a special enclosure. But she also gets tired of the enclosure, so not only in the city, but also in the country, you need to take the dog for a walk in the mornings and evenings. It is necessary to give her the opportunity to walk through the meadows and fields, run, stretch her muscles, and relieve nervous tension after guard duty. After such a walk, the dog’s body will be renewed, and it will be ready to work again.

Dog house for guard post

In order for the dog to perform its guard duties well, it is necessary to organize a guard post for it.. In any case, it is necessary to install a booth and a canopy at the post that would protect the dog from the sun and rain. The front wall of the booth is made open; bedding is not placed inside, since this is a place for temporary shelter, and not for rest. The booth needs to be raised above the ground to a height of 25 cm. The roof of the booth is made pitched, sloping back and with a canopy in front.

The photo can be enlarged by clicking the mouse.
On the presented three-dimensional model of a doghouse, the dimensions are indicated in meters. The model was made using the free 3D modeling program Google SketchUp, which I already described earlier in the article “Planning a garden plot using 3D modeling”. Currently, it is possible to download a free version of the program in Russian.

The booth is placed so that the wind does not blow into it. In front of the entrance there is a flooring for lying on, which has a slight slope to drain rainwater.

To begin with, the owner must clearly determine what exactly the dog will protect. The equipment of the post depends on this. There are different options for organizing a guard dog post.

Fixed guard post

The dog can simply be tied to a chain near a protected object so that it does not allow strangers to approach it.

If a stationary post is organized for the dog, that is, on a chain near the booth, the owner must make sure that it has a clear view of its protected object. If bushes, trees, or tall grass block your view, the dog will bark for the entire working time, just in case, so that you and your neighbors will get tired of it. In the center of the guard site, you need to dig a two-meter pole to a depth of at least a meter with a swivel and about three meters of lightweight chain made from welded links, which has a breaking force of 250-300 kg. A kennel with an open front wall is placed near the post in such a way that it does not interfere with the dog’s work or delay the chain.

Mobile guard post

You can attach a chain to a cable through a carabiner so that the dog guards a certain part of the area.

If a movable post is organized to guard a certain part of the area, the dog should also clearly see what it is guarding. The strip along which the dog runs on a chain along a tensioned cable must be raised by 10-15 cm with a layer of sand and turf. At both ends of the protected section, dig two three-meter pillars to a depth of 1 m with guy wires for greater stability. A cable with a pulley is pulled tightly between the pillars. The cable should not sag from its horizontal level by more than half a meter. A lightweight chain with a length of 2.5-3 m is also selected. To prevent the dog from running close to the posts and tangling the chain around them, limiters are placed on the cable, and then the chain does not move close to the posts.

Free site security

You can give the dog freedom of movement within the entire area, then the dog, if necessary, will rush to where something seemed suspicious to it.

It is possible to organize free security of the site if the site is surrounded by a fence. The side facing the street should be blank. The wicket and gate must be equipped with a latch and lock. They need to open into the area. You cannot leave a large gap under them, otherwise the dog will stick its paws and muzzle into it.
With any method of security, you need to hang a sign at the gate warning that the yard is guarded by a dog.
Guard duty is very tiring for the dog, because he gets very nervous, breaks the chain, and runs around, so in the summer you should not keep him on duty for more than 10 hours, and in the winter for more than 8 hours. The rest of the time, the guard dog should rest in an enclosure or in the wild.

Aviary for rest

An enclosure with an area of ​​3-4 m2 is placed in a well-ventilated shady place with its orientation from north to south, but so that the sun at the same time hits the area of ​​the enclosure. A blank wall is made from the wind at the back. The side and top of the enclosure is surrounded by a net or lattice. A canopy is placed at the back wall. The side walls should be tightly covered with planks and insulated. You should also lay the floor from boards without gaps with a slope towards the exit of approximately 2 degrees. A place for lying 100x100x25 cm is arranged under the canopy. A permanent booth measuring 100x100x100cm is also placed here. with a hole in it 50x50cm. The hole is covered with a tarpaulin if you live at the dacha in winter, and removed for the summer. For ease of washing and disinfection with a lye solution, it is better to make the booth collapsible.

Treat your guard dog kindly and kindly, then it will obey you and perform guard duty regularly.